"A largely untouched 50-foot trad climb on Elevenmile Canyon’s River Wall, Far Left Dihedral Crack challenges climbers with slick lichen patches and technical face moves alongside a right-facing dihedral. Ideal for those seeking a quieter route with solid gear placements."
Far Left Dihedral Crack offers a raw and relatively untouched trad climbing experience on the River Wall in Elevenmile Canyon, Colorado. This single-pitch climb stretches roughly 50 feet up a right-facing dihedral, sitting about 20 feet left of the more popular Parallel Universe route. The approach to the crack tests your skills right from the first moves, as you engage a small overhang using solid jugs to gain the dihedral's lip. From there, the line drifts slightly right, moving with deliberate care as you face climb alongside the dihedral, inching upward by levering on edges and occasional cracks for gear placements. The climb’s character lies in its quiet challenge; the rock is occasionally softened by patches of lichen, which can make holds feel a bit slick, reminding you to trust your feet and double-check your protection.
Protection is straightforward yet calls for thoughtful rack selection: cams up to a #2 BD fit well into the wide crack, and a long sling—around 48 inches—can be looped around a prominent rock feature midway, adding security. The top-out requires a rightward angle to reach the established anchors used by Parallel Universe, so climbers should be prepared for a non-linear finish. Despite its modest grade of 5.8-, Far Left Dihedral Crack isn’t crowded, providing a chance to engage with the rock on your own terms while soaking in the striking canyon views.
Elevenmile Canyon itself hums with the hum of the South Platte River far below, its currents daring you to push your limits. The natural soundscape blends with the faint rustling of breeze through sparse trees clinging to cliff edges. Early mornings and late afternoons offer the best light and temperatures, as the climb’s orientation brings shadows crawling across the rock face by midday. Keep an eye on conditions—lichen patches can be trickier after rain or in damp weather, and the approach trail calls for sturdy footwear to handle rocky terrain.
Whether you're looking for a less trafficked trad line or a solid warm-up on the River Wall, Far Left Dihedral Crack will reward your effort with a quiet, tactile climb that feels like a conversation between you and the rock. Prepare well, move deliberately, and let the canyon’s rugged personality draw you into a focused and rewarding ascent.
Lichen patches can conceal slick holds; always test footholds before committing moves. The approach trail rewards cautious footing, and the top-out requires careful angling to the nearby anchors.
Check weather for dry conditions; lichen can make the rock slick when damp.
Wear shoes with good edging to navigate face climbs alongside the dihedral.
Approach with sturdy footwear—trail is rocky and uneven near the base.
Plan your climb for morning or late afternoon to avoid the harsh midday sun.
Bring cams up to a #2 BD, and a 48-inch sling is helpful for wrapping the rock feature halfway up. Expect to use jugs at the start and rely on crack placements along the dihedral for protection.
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