"Far Left Cracks at Tenney Crag invites climbers onto a pair of moderate trad pitches marked by intertwining cracks and two distinct cruxes. With steady fist jams and subtle slab moves, this route blends accessible climbing with useful protection placements."
Far Left Cracks at Tenney Crag presents a compelling challenge for trad climbers seeking a moderate yet thought-provoking adventure just outside Colorado Springs. The route is distinguished by three distinct cracks that eventually merge, inviting climbers to pick their preferred line. The leftmost wide fist crack, chosen by many for its clean, logical path, demands steady movement and careful protection. The first crux situates you maneuvering up 15 feet of this fist crack before negotiating a bulging slab that tests balance and footwork. Beyond this, terrain softens into loose, easier rock, leading you to a small left-facing corner and then a right-facing one. The route’s personality shifts as you skirt a low roof, navigating toward another more challenging section—a broad crack flanked by blocks on the right that forces an awkward, diagonal move to keep within the crack system. This second crux often marks the final belay, although the route continues with scrambling to the summit. Expect roughly 150 feet of climbing delivered over two pitches, with protection options ranging from BD cams in sizes 0.3 to 3 and a full set of nuts. The rock quality varies, requiring attention to loose sections, especially above the first crux. Located at 6,200 feet elevation, the approach from the base involves a brief hike over firm terrain framed by dry forest, which provides ideal conditions in spring and fall when temperatures are mild. Climbers aiming for a late afternoon ascent will appreciate the fading sun off the west-facing wall, but morning climbs also offer quiet, uninterrupted solitude. The route’s moderate 5.9- PG13 rating makes it accessible to confident novices ready to gain experience with gear placements and crack climbing techniques without committing to intense technical difficulty. Overall, Far Left Cracks offers a solid mixture of movement variety, manageable exposure, and hands-on beta to help newcomers sharpen trad skills while enjoying the distinct ambiance of Tenney Crag’s rocky face.
Loose rock beyond the first crux calls for careful hand and foot placements. Protect well and avoid pulling on uncertain holds. Be cautious of the small roof near the second crux as moves here can feel insecure if rushed.
Approach via the well-marked trail from Colorado Springs; the hike to the base takes about 20 minutes.
Check weather carefully—wet rock worsens traction, especially on the slab bulge.
Wear sticky climbing shoes with good edging ability for slab moves.
Plan your climb in spring or fall for comfortable temperatures and stable conditions.
BD cams from 0.3 to 3 and a full nut set are essential to protect the various cracks safely, especially through the first fist jam section and the awkward diagonal crack at the second crux.
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