"Fanning the Flame delivers a sharp, right-leaning trad pitch tucked just below Lumpe Tower in Eldorado Canyon. Combining juggy cracks with face holds, this climb offers a brief, satisfying challenge perfect for those looking to extend their adventure beyond easier nearby routes."
Fanning the Flame offers a focused burst of climbing action on a compact, sharply angled cliff just below the larger formations of Lumpe Tower within Eldorado Canyon State Park. This single pitch route bends nicely to the right, threading a juggy crack system that complements some face holds for a climb that feels approachable but rewarding for climbers stepping up from easier routes nearby.
Positioned about 80 feet downhill from the north side of Lumpe Tower, this climb acts almost like an encore following a warm-up on adjacent classics such as Swanson Arete (5.5) or The Ytrid Deed (5.6). The rock is solid and inviting, with the crack open enough to accommodate a variety of hand jams and fingers, yet it maintains enough complexity—especially near the top—to keep the moves engaging. A few tricky sequence moves near the finish test route-finding and control, ensuring the climb doesn’t become just a casual stroll.
The approach here is straightforward for those already acquainted with Eldorado Canyon, well known for its steep walls carved from Golden age sandstone. After summiting one of the nearby Lumpe Tower routes, descend slightly to this smaller wall where Fanning the Flame quietly waits. The route’s length is modest at 50 feet, making it a perfect choice for climbers wanting a focused, sharp taste of Eldorado trad without the commitment of longer pitches.
Gear up with a single rack of cams up to a #2 Camalot and a selection of small to medium nuts to protect the line effectively. Protection placements are well spaced but reliable, lending confidence to those layering their safety with thoughtful gear choices. The anchor, anchored by a tree roughly 20 feet beyond the belay ledge, demands some longer slings or webbing to rig comfortably—a subtle reminder to be prepared with your standard trad rack extras.
The route’s right-leaning crack meets the face with solid holds, offering a blend of technical crack climbing and face moves that keeps body positioning essential. The rock’s texture invites confident footwork, while the occasional jug stands ready to reward reaching hands. Climbers often praise this route as a perfect complement to the area's more cruising climbs, a compact challenge that pushes the skill level slightly upward with a tricky finish that teases out your best beta.
Eldorado Canyon's stark sandstone climate means mornings and late afternoons offer the best light and comfortable temperatures, particularly in spring and fall when the sun's angle softens the stone’s heat. The wall’s orientation ensures it catches enough early sun to warm cold fingers, but remains shaded later in the day, making timing your ascent part of the overall experience.
Descending is a simple walk-off return to the base, avoiding complicated rappels, but caution is advised navigating the rocky terrain and loose scree that pepper the access path. Plan your approach and departure with an eye on daylight to maintain firm footing and safe transit.
Fanning the Flame is not just a climb but a brief encounter with the raw character of Eldorado’s less crowded walls—a slice of the canyon that demands attention, offers solid protection, and leaves climbers eager for the next pitch.
Though the rock is solid, the approach and descent paths include loose scree and uneven footing—exercise caution moving on these slopes, particularly in wet conditions. The tree anchor requires long slings for secure belaying; avoid shortcuts here to maintain safety.
Approach from Lumpe Tower after climbing warm-up routes for easy access.
Pack long slings to reach the tree anchor comfortably.
Best climbed in spring or fall to avoid extreme heat on the sandstone.
Watch footing on descent as loose scree can be slippery after rain.
Bring a single set of cams up to #2 Camalot plus a selection of small to medium nuts. Long slings or webbing are necessary to set a comfortable anchor on the tree about 20 feet beyond the route's top out.
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