HomeClimbingFamily Album

Family Album: A Classic Trad Route at Jackass Rock

Mammoth Lakes, California United States
trad crack
single pitch
granite dihedral
easy approach
southern sierra
beginner friendly
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Family Album
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Family Album carves a clear path up a prominent dihedral at Jackass Rock, delivering classic trad climbing with solid gear placements in a quiet corner of the Southern Sierra. This accessible 60-foot route offers steady movement set against a backdrop of open forest and granite."

Family Album: A Classic Trad Route at Jackass Rock

Family Album offers a straightforward yet rewarding introduction to traditional climbing on the rugged granite faces of Jackass Rock, located within the Mammoth Pool area of the Southern Sierra in California. This 60-foot single-pitch climb follows an obvious dihedral that speaks plainly to climbers craving a pure trad experience without unnecessary complexity. The rock itself is solid, textured granite, offering dependable friction and straightforward placements for a basic traditional rack. The approach wanders through mixed forest and granite terrain, leading to a quiet spot not far from the main trail, where nature’s openness invites a moment to catch your breath before the ascent.

The climb leans on simple but secure gear placements, making it an accessible option for those building trad skills or looking for a low-stress day out. The dihedral’s clean lines provide natural holds and intuitive moves that keep the focus on steady footwork and smooth hand jams. Despite its modest length and moderate 5.8 rating, Family Album has a character all its own—a no-frills route grounded in straightforward movement and solid protection potential.

The surrounding area is quiet, with the whisper of pines overhead and the distant pulse of the nearby creek mingling with the dry Sierra air. Though the route itself won’t test advanced climbers with technical cruxes, it encourages attentiveness to gear placement and confidence on less-traveled rock. The anchor at the top is simple but sturdy, allowing for a comfortable belay or a quick rappel setup. After topping out, a brief walk-off brings you back to the trailhead, rounding out a manageable half-day climb.

For those planning a trip, timing your ascent for early mornings or late afternoons keeps the rock cool and shadows long, especially during the warmer summer months. Wear solid approach shoes for the walk-in, which threads through uneven terrain and light brush. Bring plenty of water, as shade can be sparse along parts of the trail. Limited votes and stars highlight its quiet status among local climbs, yet Family Album rewards those seeking honest climbing on reliable rock with a simple, satisfying route.

Climber Safety

Though the rock is solid, gear placements can be spaced out in places, so climbers should maintain focused attention on protecting the lead. The anchor atop the route is straightforward but basic—double-check all rings and webbing before committing to a rappel or belay.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to enjoy cooler rock and avoid midday heat on exposed sections.

Bring sturdy approach shoes—the walk-in crosses uneven and rocky terrain.

Pack plenty of water; natural shade is limited along the trail.

Check gear carefully; while placements are straightforward, quality protection is essential.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels appropriately approachable, offering simple but reliable climbing with no hidden cruxes. It serves as a perfect step for climbers honing cracks and gear placements without excessive challenge. For those familiar with other Southern Sierra climbs, Family Album is less strenuous than nearby multi-pitch classics but maintains the same granite texture and solid protection ethic.

Gear Requirements

A basic trad rack covers the protection needs here. Focus on small to medium cams and a selection of nuts to secure gear in the dihedral’s clean cracks. Fixed anchors are not present, so reliable placements and attention to gear quality are key.

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Tags

trad crack
single pitch
granite dihedral
easy approach
southern sierra
beginner friendly