HomeClimbingFalling Into Blackness

Falling Into Blackness: A Bold Sport Climb at Doctors' Wall

Penticton, British Columbia Canada
sport climb
technical start
reachy crux
small roof
flaked holds
granite
single pitch
Length: 85 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Falling Into Blackness
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Falling Into Blackness challenges climbers with a precise start and a reachy crux, set on an 85-foot single pitch at Doctors' Wall. Well-protected and physically engaging, this route unites technical moves with a commitment to steady gear management."

Falling Into Blackness: A Bold Sport Climb at Doctors' Wall

Falling Into Blackness carves a thrilling line across the steep rock of Doctors' Wall, offering climbers a compact yet demanding experience in British Columbia’s Okanagan region. This 85-foot single-pitch adventure opens with a subtle test of balance and conviction, requiring a precise step over a daunting deep hole that sits just below the first bolt—hesitation here could spell trouble. From this measured introduction, the route picks up momentum along left-facing flakes that stretch upward, culminating in a reachy crux that challenges both technique and reach. As you push past the crux, generous flakes invite steady hands and thoughtful footwork, leading to a distinctive small roof that demands committing moves and body tension. The final section smooths out, with slicker rock encouraging careful smearing and delicate positioning to the top anchors.

Located in the Doctors' Group within Skaha, this sport climb commands attention for its well-bolted protection—11 bolts offer reliable security but require respect for placement due to the technical start. The wall’s angle and stone character reward climbers who arrive with solid footwork and the confidence to manage dynamic moves within a compact vertical pitch. Beyond the climb itself, the setting is approachable but framed by the dry, sun-drenched landscape of the Okanagan, speaking to the region’s granite character and often warm, stable weather during the climbing season.

For those planning a visit, timing your climb in the cooler hours of morning or late afternoon will help mitigate the wall’s exposure to the midday sun, ensuring better friction and comfort. Footwear with sensitive edging capacity will serve well on the mixed flakes and smooth slab at the top, while a keen eye for bolt positioning will be essential for efficient lead management. Though the approach is relatively straightforward, carry of your rack should anticipate the sport nature of the pitch and the physical demands of the crux sequences.

With a moderate star rating indicating steady value and reliability, Falling Into Blackness remains a standout choice for climbers seeking an intense, well-equipped route that strikes a balance between physical challenge and technical finesse. This route invites a blend of sharp focus and flowing movement, perfect for athletes eager to test their mettle without losing footing to overly committing terrain.

Climber Safety

The initial step over a deep hole below the first bolt must be executed cleanly—missteps can lead to awkward falls. Pay close attention during this move to secure your clip and avoid swinging into the wall or the void. Additionally, the smooth rock at the top can be slick, especially if dust or moisture accumulates, so slow and deliberate foot placement is vital.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Approach in early morning or late afternoon to avoid intense midday heat on the wall.

Focus on polished footwork for the smooth rock near the top; smearing is key.

Clip the first bolt with care to avoid the deep hole directly beneath it.

Carry standard sport quickdraws and be ready for dynamic moves through the crux.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating fits well with the route’s move complexity and endurance demands in a single pitch. The start feel is slightly stiff because of the tricky entry and precise bolt clip. The reachy crux requires strength and coordination, elevating the natural difficulty beyond a straightforward 5.10d—worthy of respect for climbers familiar with the grade. Within the local context, it’s a well-balanced challenge compared to other Skaha routes in the 5.10 range that lean more toward endurance or sustained crimpy sequences.

Gear Requirements

The climb requires a standard sport rack, relying on 11 well-spaced bolts that provide consistent protection. The critical early moves demand surefooted stepping and careful bolt clipping. Wear precise climbing shoes to navigate the mixed flakes and smooth slabs safely.

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Tags

sport climb
technical start
reachy crux
small roof
flaked holds
granite
single pitch