"Face My Face is a focused single-pitch trad route featuring slick slab climbing on Unaweep Canyon’s granite. It demands precise gear placement and footwork, offering a compact yet engaging challenge that converges with Two Worlds for a shared finish."
Face My Face offers climbers a sharp introduction to the rugged character of Unaweep Canyon's granite walls. This single-pitch trad route carves a path across a slabby, water-streaked face located just to the right of the more widely known Two Worlds climb. The rock’s surface presents slick, polished sections where water tracks trace natural grooves, demanding delicate footwork and careful gear placement. As you ascend, the granite subtly shifts from smooth slab to sharper features, inviting a mix of hand jams and layback moves that keep the body engaged and balanced.
Roughly two-thirds of the way up, Face My Face converges with Two Worlds at a distinct layback flake, giving a shared finish that utilizes the same solid two-bolt anchor. The route’s 125-foot length strikes a satisfying balance between endurance and focused technicality, ideal for climbers stepping beyond beginner cracks but not yet ready for extended multi-pitch assaults. Though rated 5.9, the challenge lies in navigating an approach that rewards careful gear selection—expect to employ cams from small to fist-sized and make use of seven quickdraws to protect the varied sequence.
The setting itself heightens the experience: Unaweep Canyon’s vast openness stretches out below, the dry desert air exchanging warmth for the occasional cool gust funneling off the distant plateau rims. The granite faces reflect sunlight with a muted glow, and at certain points, the faint splash of ancient water stains hints at seasonal runoff soaking the rock, a reminder to choose your timing wisely.
Accessing Face My Face involves following a moderate trail through scratchy brushes and rock scatter, about 20 minutes from the main access road. The approach is straightforward but requires attention—granite slabs rise steeply here, and incubating rattlesnake habitats remind climbers to stay alert. A steady pace and sturdy footwear will ease the approach.
Protection on the climb demands a thoughtful rack: a set of cams from micro to fist size and a handful of quickdraws will cover the gear requirements. The two-bolt anchor securing the top is reliable, but with limited fixed gear on the route, placing quality pro early ensures safety and confidence. The rock quality is generally excellent, but water-worn sections mean some holds feel smooth, so balance and precision take precedence over brute strength.
Climbers should target mid-morning to early afternoon ascents when the face receives full sun, warming the rock and aiding friction. Early spring to fall is prime climbing season here; winter can bring icy conditions and summer’s heat demands ample hydration. Descending is seamless: a controlled rappel off the two-bolt anchor drops you right back to the base, avoiding tricky downclimbs on loose terrain.
Face My Face seduces those ready to experience Unaweep’s less traveled granite slabs with a route that speaks of steady focus rather than wild power. Its blend of technical slab movement, solid protection, and scenic views makes it a rewarding stop for climbers building trad repertoire in Colorado’s high desert corridors.
Water-streaked granite can feel deceptively slick—double check footholds and test placements in these sections. Watch for seasonal rattlesnakes on the approach trail, and stick to the rappel anchor to avoid loose downclimbing.
Plan your climb mid-morning to early afternoon for the best friction as the sun warms the granite.
Wear shoes with excellent edging capability to handle the water-polished slabs.
Approach in sturdy footwear and watch for rattlesnakes in warmer months along the access trail.
Bring sufficient water, as the canyon environment can dry quickly, especially in late summer.
Carry a rack that includes cams from micro to fist size alongside at least seven quickdraws. Protection requires thoughtful placement due to the mixed slabby terrain, with a secure two-bolt anchor at the top for rappelling.
Upload your photos of Face My Face and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.