Exploring the Southeast Face of Mt. Bierstadt - A Raw Colorado Alpine Adventure

Georgetown, CO, Colorado
alpine
loose rock
trad gear
high altitude
remote approach
Class 3 approach
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Mount Bierstadt Alpine Zone
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Southeast Face of Mt. Bierstadt offers a rugged and relatively untouched climbing experience in Colorado’s alpine environment. This demanding wall features nascent routes that test climbers ready to engage with its raw qualities and variable terrain."

Exploring the Southeast Face of Mt. Bierstadt - A Raw Colorado Alpine Adventure

Rising to an elevation of 12,114 feet, the Southeast Face of Mt. Bierstadt challenges climbers with a broad, barely explored wall set on the south east side of this iconic Colorado peak. Unlike the more frequented faces surrounding Mt. Bierstadt, this approach calls for a measured spirit of adventure and a readiness to embrace unpredictability. The rock is less traveled and includes areas of large choss that demand vigilance, especially if you're among the first to test a line on this wall.

The landscape unfolds from the parking area perched near the second switchback of Mt. Evans Road, where the trek down a steep 900-foot section of Class 3 terrain sets a tone of commitment. Expect this initial approach to take around an hour or two as you carefully descend and then cross a valley toward the face itself. From Abyss Lake Trail, glimpses of the steep southeast wall spike to the northwest between Helms Lake and Lake Fork, though no formal path currently connects the trail to the base of the rock. This sparse access underscores the importance of minimizing impact on the fragile alpine tundra you traverse.

The climbing environment here is raw and honest. One classic pitch, Right of Passage (5.10), stands out as a beacon for climbers keen to measure themselves on this wall. This route offers a focused challenge amidst the untouched terrain, giving a taste of the potential locked in these cliffs. Caution is paramount due to the unstable rock sections – a reminder that this isn’t a playground but a serious alpine endeavor.

A northeast-facing approach means that early morning and late afternoon sessions provide the coolest conditions, while midday sun breaks through the thinner air of this high-altitude setting during summer’s prime climbing season from June through September. Weather can shift rapidly at this elevation, so preparation for crisp mountain air or sudden changes is essential.

Gear up with a rack suited for mixed alpine lines. The terrain’s raw nature implies you may find sporadic protective placements with some loose rock sections, so sturdy trad gear, including cams and nuts, is advisable. Helmets here aren’t optional but vital. There’s no established trail down from Abyss Lake yet, so plan for a careful approach and descent, retracing your steps or finding cautious downclimb options where terrain allows.

Beyond the climbing, the location inside the broader expanse of Colorado’s alpine rock country rewards with spectacular views of the surrounding alpine lakes and ridgelines. Those who settle into the rhythm of the region – navigating careful approaches, respecting the fragile tundra, and embracing the wilderness – discover a refreshing taste of backcountry climbing that blends challenge with natural beauty.

The Southeast Face is not for casual climbers seeking well-bolted sport routes or crowds. Instead, it calls for the alpine-minded and the explorers willing to piece together a memorable adventure from rough-hewn stone and serene wilderness. For climbers looking to test themselves beyond established paths while soaking in the grandeur of the Colorado high country, this face promises a raw and rewarding experience.

Climber Safety

Loose rock is a significant concern on the Southeast Face. Helmets are strongly recommended, and extra caution is necessary when leading routes, especially if you’re the first party on the line. The approach involves Class 3 terrain with steep descents where slips can be hazardous.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Park near the second switchback on Mt. Evans Road for the most manageable approach.

Wear a helmet and double-check all placements due to loose rock sections.

Respect fragile alpine tundra by sticking to durable surfaces during the approach.

Plan sufficient time for the descent, as the route back crosses unmarked terrain.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Right of Passage (5.10) reflects a solid moderate challenge on a route found in a largely untouched wall. The climbing grades here feel true to their ratings, as the line requires technical ability and good route-finding skills, rather than inflated difficulty. The Southeast Face leans into a natural alpine grit similar to other Colorado high-mountain trad walls but with a less-traveled vibe.

Gear Requirements

Expect to use a full trad rack due to the presence of large choss and sparse fixed protection. Helmets are mandatory due to loose rock hazards. Approach demands solid hiking footwear for Class 3 terrain and tundra navigation.

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Tags

alpine
loose rock
trad gear
high altitude
remote approach
Class 3 approach