"Exilis Dihedral offers a single-pitch adventure carving through a prominent left-facing corner on Derrydale Cliff. Combining delicate slab moves with engaging layback and stemming techniques, this climb challenges intermediate trad and sport climbers seeking varied movement in a scenic California setting."
Perched along the dramatic expanse of Derrydale Cliff, Exilis Dihedral stands out as a distinctive route that challenges both the mind and muscles over a single pitch of exposed climbing. This 75-foot line follows a bold left-facing corner, its clean dihedral etched sharply into the cliff’s heart. The route begins with delicate slab climbing where balance and precise footwork become your allies. Here, three bolts mark the crux, tempting you to test your control on smooth rock before you gain the comfort of the corner’s embrace. Once inside the dihedral, the climbing shifts to an engaging mix of laybacking and stemming, inviting a dialogue between your hands and feet as you fluidly slide and push against opposing faces.
The rock's texture varies between slick and solid, rewarding thoughtful body positioning with steady upward progress. Nearing the top, a generous ledge offers a welcome reprieve, giving you space to breathe and plan the final moves. A short section of moderate fifth-class terrain leads you over the last bulge, where a fixed rappel anchor waits to guide you safely back to the ground.
This climb combines the mental dance of technical slab with the rhythm of classic corner climbing, making it an engaging choice for those seeking to hone versatile trad and sport skills together. With a handful of well-placed bolts and the need for a solid rack ranging from small cams to mid-size protections, preparation is key to ensure smooth gear placements and confident movement.
Approach to Exilis Dihedral cuts through oak-studded hillsides via a straightforward trail off Highway 33 near Ojai. The quick hike deposits you at the base of the cliff within 15 minutes, traversing a mostly firm path that winds through patches of chaparral and open exposure. Early mornings or late afternoons bring the best light and temperatures, with the southwest-facing wall warming up comfortably in cooler months but demanding attention to hydration when temperatures climb.
Climbers should carry a mix of traditional gear up to 2.5 inches and trust the route’s four half-inch sleeve bolts where protection is sparse. Pay attention to rock texture around the bolts—while mostly solid, some holds require delicate testing. With twelve recorded votes averaging 3.1 stars, this route offers a satisfying blend of challenge without the intimidation of higher grades, suitable for intermediate climbers wanting to stretch their trad skills in a stunning coastal setting.
In essence, Exilis Dihedral isn’t just a climb; it’s a call to engage physically and mentally with a unique crack feature that invites you to play with friction, balance, and body placement. The surrounding landscape, with its clear blue skies and cooler canyon breezes, frames the climb with a sense of open possibility, reminding you why you chose this rocky theater to test yourself. Whether you're brushing up on crack techniques or mixing sport bolts with traditional gear, this climb rewards focus, finesse, and a healthy respect for the rock beneath your hands.
The slab section involves thin holds with some polished rock—test each critical hand and foot placement carefully. Rappel anchors are reliable but require attentive rope management due to open exposure on the ledge.
Approach the cliff early to avoid afternoon heat and enjoy better friction on slab moves.
Focus on precise footwork during the initial slab section to conserve energy for the dihedral.
Use cams mid-sized and smaller carefully as some placements require delicate gear placements.
The rappel anchors are fixed and spacious but double-check your rope setup before descent.
Carry a standard set of cams from #0 TCU to 2.5 inches to protect the natural cracks, along with reliance on four fixed half-inch sleeve bolts guarding the crux and key transitions.
Upload your photos of Exilis Dihedral and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.