"Ethical Jesture offers a 120-foot single-pitch trad challenge in Clear Creek Canyon, blending intricate climbing with sparse protection. Perfect for climbers looking to hone runout trad skills on solid Colorado rock."
Ethical Jesture stands out as a compelling challenge amid the rugged stone faces of Clear Creek Canyon, a striking outdoor climbing destination just beyond Golden, Colorado. This single-pitch 120-foot trad climb demands focus and composure, weaving through a line that was bolted on the lead with an old-school style reminiscent of South Dakota’s Needles—an intentional test for bold climbers ready to embrace a measure of risk. The route's central position on the wall places it right where the afternoon sun warms the rock, revealing gritty textures and pocketed holds that require precise foot and hand placements.
Despite its relatively modest rating of 5.9 R, Ethical Jesture carries a serious edge. The “R” warning reflects the presence of sparse protection, reinforced by stories of lost pins and reliance on gear placements that are smaller and less certain. Climbers should prepare for some intricate sequences where finger cracks and jammed holds offer both challenge and the chance to engage with the rock in a hands-on way. The route rewards controlled movement and thoughtful gear management, making it an ideal testbed for those growing into confidence with runout trad climbs.
Approaching Ethical Jesture involves negotiating Clear Creek’s well-trodden canyon access trails, where the terrain shifts from open meadows to shaded rock walls framed by patches of scrub pine. The approach trail is straightforward, requiring about 20 minutes from the main parking area near Golden, with clear signage and moderate elevation change. On the wall, the rock is predominantly sharp and textured, offering solid friction but demanding careful footwork to avoid kicks or slips.
Given the outdated nature of some fixed gear, bringing a small rack of nuts and cams tailored for smaller cracks is an important safety measure. This route rewards climbers who come prepared to place solid protection on the fly, reinforcing gear placements where bolts are absent or questionable. As a trad climb with a runout character, it’s best tackled with a trusted partner ready to navigate both the moves and the mental game.
Keep in mind the timing of your ascent; afternoon climbs provide the best temperature balance, as the rock absorbs warmth from the sun but remains cool enough to maintain grip. Early spring through late fall is the ideal season when the weather is stable and the canyon washes clean from winter runoff. Descending requires a straightforward rappel or a short downclimb back to the trailhead, though caution is advised to avoid loose rocks and to scout rappel anchors ahead of time.
Ethical Jesture is less about flashy moves and more about steady commitment, an exercise in composure and smart climbing on natural protection. It stands as a nod to traditional values in climbing while offering an engaging experience for those ready to test their skills on a route with an adventurous edge. This climb is perfect for climbers with some trad background who want to sharpen their gear placement instincts against a backdrop of rugged Colorado wilderness.
Watch for unreliable fixed protection and possibly missing pins. Given the runout sections, good rack management and confidence in placing small nuts is essential. Loose rock near anchors and ledges adds to the need for caution during both ascent and descent.
Approach via established Clear Creek Canyon trails, about 20 minutes from Golden parking.
Afternoon climbs offer the best temperature for grip and comfort on the rock.
Inspect and supplement fixed gear where possible; bring small nut sets for added security.
Descend by rappel; scout anchors carefully to avoid loose rock or unstable placements.
Carry a small rack including nuts and small cams, as fixed gear may be limited or unreliable. Be ready for placements on small cracks and old pins that may have loosened or fallen out.
Upload your photos of Ethical Jesture and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.