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Et Tu Brutus at The Grooves, Skaha

Penticton, British Columbia Canada
shallow groove
open book
small trad gear
single pitch
Okanagan granite
exposed
mixed protection
Length: 165 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Et Tu Brutus
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Et Tu Brutus offers a sustained 165-foot trad climb along The Grooves at Skaha, blending bolts with small gear placements in a shallow open book. This approachable 5.9 presents a balanced mix of technical moves and steady endurance—an excellent choice for trad climbers exploring Okanagan granite."

Et Tu Brutus at The Grooves, Skaha

Et Tu Brutus is an inviting trad climb that challenges you with a single, extended pitch spanning 165 feet high along The Grooves wall at Skaha. Located just a short approach from the bustling Okanagan Valley in British Columbia, this route carves through a shallow open book and groove system that demands steady footwork and route-finding savvy. Begin a little left of Minor Skirmish where the first bolts secure your ascent before you traverse right to follow the line where Captain Winkler climbs. The rock is generally solid, with a blend of fixed bolts and opportunities for small trad placements, creating a balanced experience between sport and traditional gear work. The groove and open book feel active underhand jams and face holds—a tactile playground for those who appreciate climbing that marries technical moves with natural features.

From the base, the surroundings are defined by vibrant Okanagan sunlight brushing warm granite, contrasting against the cool air drifting in from the lake below. The wall, while exposed, offers a subtle shading pattern in the later afternoon, making afternoon ascents a pleasant choice during warmer months. Pulling upward, you can sense the history embedded in the rock, as bolts mark passages taken by those who have come before, but the route remains unpretentious, accessible, and rewarding.

Protection is straightforward but requires bringing some small trad gear to complement the five bolts along the way. The placements are manageable but demand care, especially on the slightly runout sections where a confident rack and solid anchor building skills come into play. The climb culminates at a convenient anchor about 50 meters above the start, a reminder of the route’s length and endurance test. At the top, the descent routes are well established, rappelling off Special Forces in two stages.

For those planning a visit, the moderate YDS 5.9 rating holds some interest: it feels stable and approachable rather than punishing, with the crux located in the transition through the groove. Those familiar with local climbs will find parallels in other Skaha classics, making Et Tu Brutus a refreshing option either as a warm-up or stand-alone challenge. Layer your approach with sensible footwear for the brief trail, hydration given the sun exposure, and patience for crowded weekends.

This climb is a gateway to the range of granite lines the Skaha area offers, capturing the essence of Okanagan’s blend of adventure and practicality. Whether you’re returning climber seeking to expand your portfolio or new to trad and ready to explore without excessive commitment, Et Tu Brutus offers a measured, memorable day on the rock.

Climber Safety

Despite fixed bolts, several sections require precise gear placements in small cracks—ensure your rack covers these sizes and confirm protection before committing. The rappel down demands care; avoid oversized ropes or wear to prevent hang-ups during the two-stage descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length165 feet

Local Tips

Approach on sturdy hiking shoes; trail is short but uneven.

Start climbs mid-morning to avoid the afternoon sun on the wall.

Double-check your trad rack to include small cams for backup gear.

Plan your descent to rappel off Special Forces in two stages carefully.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Et Tu Brutus is well-earned but approachable, with a crux that emerges as you navigate the groove and open book feature. The grade feels fair, making it a good introduction to mixed protection routes in the area without overwhelming runouts. Experienced Skaha climbers will note it sits comfortably alongside other 5.8–5.10 routes found nearby, positioning Et Tu Brutus as a solid step into sustained trad climbing.

Gear Requirements

The route features five bolts with opportunities for small trad gear placements, making a mixed rack essential. Bring a selection of small cams and nuts to safely bridge runout sections and build solid anchors.

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Tags

shallow groove
open book
small trad gear
single pitch
Okanagan granite
exposed
mixed protection