HomeClimbingEscapade Buttress

Escapade Buttress: A Bold Arete on California's Sierra Eastside

Bishop, California United States
arete
roof crux
patina
long rappel
sport climbing
Sierra Eastside
Length: 200 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Escapade Buttress
Aspect
South Facing

Escapade Buttress

Sport

Bishop, California United States

Overview

"Escapade Buttress delivers a bold and sustained 5.9 arete climb on Sierra Eastside’s red walls. With a winding line that passes multiple roofs and textured patina, it’s a memorable route for climbers seeking a measured challenge framed by stunning canyon views."

Escapade Buttress: A Bold Arete on California's Sierra Eastside

Escapade Buttress rises sharply above Pine Creek Canyon, offering a commanding line on one of the Sierra Eastside’s striking red walls. This single-pitch sport route stretches 200 feet along a striking arete, weaving past several roofs and peeling overlaps coated with textured patina. The climb rewards steady movement and keen attention, inviting both the casual climber and seasoned adventurer to test their skills on its sustained 5.9 terrain.

Situated at the very top of Silverback Gully, Escapade Buttress catches the morning sun before dropping into shade as the day advances. The route’s crux revolves around negotiating the complex geometry of roofs, where body positioning meets precise footwork. Multiple bolt placements—23 in total if taken as two segments—ensure security, while natural features provide enough texture to keep you locked on the wall.

The approach to the climb from Cyanide Gully is straightforward, though the canyon’s quiet stillness belies the physical effort ahead. Wilderness air carries the scents of pine and sun-warmed granite, while cool breezes brush past, providing relief during the exertion. For anyone approaching from Bishop, the route sits conveniently accessible yet offers a genuine step into vertical exposure.

Climbers tackling this route typically choose between a single continuous pitch or breaking it into two sections. The first pitch climbs with 13 bolts to a roomy station that overlooks the canyon’s expansive views; the second pitch adds 10 more bolts, cruising along textured rock that demands constant focus. Anchors are solid but require care, as the rappel down is a long haul—two stages are necessary with a 70m rope to reach the base.

Protection is sport-standard well maintained bolts, though the route's length and position make efficient rope management key. Those planning their ascent should prepare for a stretch back to ground that is not to be hurried, emphasizing a calm and measured descent to complete the experience.

Timing a climb on Escapade Buttress is critical: mornings bring the best light and cooler conditions, while afternoons can grow warm and demand careful hydration. Footwear that balances grip and edging will ease movements on the rock’s patinated surfaces, especially near the overlaps where precision is rewarded.

This climb stitches together challenge and beauty with practical accessibility, welcoming climbers who appreciate a sustained arete climb in California’s high desert environment. Its distinctive position on the escarpment offers sweeping views and a compelling physical puzzle, all framed by the quiet grandeur of the Sierra Eastside wilderness.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the descent: two rappels with a 70m rope are required, and anchors are muffed, demanding precise rope work and familiarity with long rappels. Also, prepare for loose rock near anchors and potential wind exposure.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler conditions and better light on the arete.

Bring hydration; the canyon’s dry air can accelerate dehydration.

Wear shoes with strong edging capabilities to handle patina and roof transitions.

Prepare for a long rappel descent and double-check anchor gear before committing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Escapade Buttress sits comfortably in the moderate range but hides sustained moves through several roof sections that push endurance and technique. The grade feels accurate without being soft—those used to cragging single-pitch sport routes will find the length and sequence engaging. Compared to nearby Black Slab routes, this climb packs more continuous difficulty and exposure.

Gear Requirements

The route features 23 bolts, split as 13 bolts on the first pitch and 10 on the second when climbed as two pitches. Mussy anchors are present at belays. Two rappels with a 70m rope are required for the descent. Rope management is crucial due to the route’s length and position.

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Tags

arete
roof crux
patina
long rappel
sport climbing
Sierra Eastside