"Ernest Extended Way transforms a modest 40-foot climb into a focused test of trad skill on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge. Sparse protection and a sharp roof crux demand a steady hand and sound judgment, making it a compelling extension for experienced climbers seeking a quick but stirring challenge."
Ernest Extended Way offers a sharp taste of Eldorado Canyon’s rugged character for climbers who yearn to push their limits on traditional gear. This brief but intense 40-foot route on the West Ridge carves through a broken, right-facing dihedral that immediately demands respect. The climb starts at a broad, grassy ramp just above a lone, branched tree—a natural landmark that anchors your approach. From here, fingers slide into the edge of the dihedral, navigating a roof section that challenges your technique and composure. The angle swings you left as you press upward to link up with the nearby Ernest Hemingway route, but with a rawer, less forgiving streak.
Above the roof, protection choices become sparse, leaving you to rely on precise placements and a cool head. The single bolt at the crux offers minimal reassurance — think of it as a fragile lifeline in an otherwise wild stretch. That bolt, replaced in 2006, doesn't mask the seriousness of a potential fall here. Approaching this move demands focus and body control; a slip would mean testing your nerve against the sparse gear and exposed features.
The route’s proximity to the more popular Ernest Hemingway climb creates a compelling extension, turning a quick ascent into a test of skill with thoughtful gear management. The terrain beneath your feet shifts from rough stone to smoother slabs, while the air fills with the sounds of canyon breezes pushing through the ridge. This west-facing line catches the afternoon sun, highlighting the golden hues of Eldorado’s sandstone walls.
Accessing Ernest Extended Way involves a straightforward but gritty trail leading directly to the grassy ledge. The approach is short and efficient, rewarding climbers who value minimal time between the trailhead and the rock. While the route only covers 40 feet and takes less than a pitch, the exposure and technical nuances make it feel like a significant undertaking.
For descent, a 60-meter rope is just sufficient. A sling and rappel ring secured on a tree across the east slab offers a quick and safe return to the bottom. That descent, while simple, requires attention—loose rock and uneven footing remind you that Eldorado’s wildness never fully relinquishes its edge.
In practical terms, sturdy trad gear is essential, with an emphasis on small to medium cams to fit the varied placements along the dihedral. Climbing shoes with sticky rubber will enhance your grip on the roof and slab transitions. Bring a helmet to protect from inevitable rockfall, and time your ascent to avoid the harsh midday sun, favoring mid to late afternoon when the route basks in warm light but cools from the breeze.
Ernest Extended Way suits climbers comfortable with moderate risk and a route that demands respect without overstatement. It’s a brief but memorable venture into Eldorado’s granite heart, where every move counts and the landscape breathes as a silent partner and challenge.
Protection thins dramatically after the roof; falling at the crux could result in a serious swing or ground fall. Helmet use is critical because of loose rock in the dihedral. Avoid climbing after heavy rain as slab sections become slick.
Start early or late to avoid midday sun; the west-facing route warms up in the afternoon.
Bring a 60m rope to rappel safely from the tree anchor on the east slab.
Pay close attention to gear placements above the roof where protection is sparse.
Scout the approach carefully, using the 'model Christmas tree' as your key landmark.
Expect limited pro placements above the roof with a single bolt at the crux for added but minimal security. Use small to medium cams and slings for the dihedral. A helmet is advised due to potential loose rock.
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