"Englishman's Route climbs the upper section of Hallett Peak’s second buttress, blending crack and face climbing into a rewarding alpine challenge. Ideal for seasoned climbers who want quality granite, exposure, and less crowded routes in RMNP."
Rising prominently on the upper half of Hallett Peak’s second buttress in Rocky Mountain National Park, Englishman's Route stands as a compelling test for climbers who seek an adventurous alpine experience without the congestion of more popular lines. The route begins from the white band that slices across the face, advancing upward through a combination of crack systems and featured face holds. This climb requires not just technical skill but also a keen sense of route-finding, as you must navigate around a wet, black, right-leaning crack that dares you to stay dry and focused on the drier face holds to its right.
Approaching via the ascent of Better Than Love’s lower pitches is the most direct way to reach Englishman’s Route, though determined climbers might start from other iconic routes like Love Route or Culp-Bossier, weaving through Hallett’s granite maze. From the ground, the striking black crack, the route’s key landmark, is visible above the dividing white band – a distinctive bulwark against the sky. Moving past the wet sections is essential, as the cruxes lie on positive face holds that require careful footwork and steady hands.
The first pitch tests your ability to read the rock, working gradually along cracks and face holds toward a small but secure belay point perched above the white band. Here, your protection arsenal—primarily standard alpine gear including nuts and cams—helps manage the occasional runouts intrinsic to this route, but the granite’s solid feel encourages confidence. Pitch two offers a blend of sustained moves and tactical traversing; around the midpoint, you shift toward the large, wet black crack to place more reliable pro, using #2 and #3 Camalots. The pitch culminates in a powerful move over an overlap, requiring body tension and precise foot placement to reach the belay stance tucked up and left.
Pitch three delivers a continuous push to the summit in nearly 60 meters of climbing, a balance of crack jams and face climbing that threads through intermittent ledges and a small roof. The rock here demands attention—face holds offer delightful texture but little margin for error, while sparse protection spots necessitate thoughtful gear placement. Breaking this pitch into two shorter sections is an option if your rope system allows, reducing drag and increasing safety.
What sets Englishman's Route apart is the rewarding sense of exposure and the quality of the granite, which holds up beautifully against the elements. Although the route carries a 5.8 rating, many climbers find the climbing slightly more straightforward than expected, especially compared to Hallett’s other classics. The crux encountered on Better Than Love below tends to present more difficulty than Englishman’s upper pitches, rendering this line a logical choice after the busier, technical routes on the mountain.
Planning your climb means preparing for an alpine environment where weather shifts swiftly and strategies for hydration, timing, and equipment selection make all the difference. Early starts help avoid afternoon storms common in the Colorado high country, and reliable footwear is essential given the route’s combination of slabby face and crack climbing. Pack efficiently and remain vigilant for rope drag, particularly on the long final pitch.
Englishman's Route offers a rewarding challenge on solid granite with riveting exposure and straightforward access in one of Colorado's premier climbing destinations. For climbers familiar with the region’s more crowded lines, this route holds the promise of solitude and genuine alpine adventure.
Stay alert for wet rock along the large black crack, as moisture here can make holds slippery and protection tricky. Belay stances are solid but some ledges are small and uneven. Weather in RMNP changes quickly; be prepared to retreat if storms approach.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in RMNP.
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for the combination of cracks and slabby granite faces.
Be prepared to simul-climb or stop short of belays if you feel comfortable with rope management.
Expect damp conditions around the big black crack and plan your route to stay dry on the adjacent face holds.
Carry a standard alpine rack with nuts and cams up to size #3 Camalots. Expect some runouts and sparse protection on face sections. Emphasize gear placements on crack features, particularly on pitch two where traversing to a large black crack is essential.
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