"Elmer Fudd's 1000 Yard Stare stands out in Rabbit Valley for its blend of technical offwidth and aid climbing over sandstone cliffs. This two-pitch route offers a robust trad experience paired with manageable aid sections, perfect for climbers looking to expand their rack skills in an accessible desert setting."
Elmer Fudd's 1000 Yard Stare carves a distinctive line through Rabbit Valley’s rugged cliffs, delivering an engaging mixture of traditional and aid climbing that tests both technique and nerve. From the first move on the left side of a prominent formation, the climb immediately demands attention as the initial crack narrows into a demanding offwidth before easing onto a spacious ledge system to catch your breath and plan your next move. The first pitch unfolds over about 75 feet, with intricate jams and body jams defining the rhythm—this portion rewards climbers who come prepared to embrace offwidth strategies.
Gear is essential here; be ready to deploy doubles in smaller sizes before transitioning into larger cams as the crack widens. The second pitch presents a steeper challenge, beginning with a four to five-inch crack protected by reliable #3 Camalots. Midway up, you’ll switch from aid placements to free climbing sections where clever nut placements and solid footwork keep you moving upward. Although the rock starts to show wear toward the summit, the climbing becomes less technical, offering a slower pace to savor the expansive views over Grand Junction and beyond.
Anchors rely on three solid pins at the base of the second pitch crack, while the summit features a slung blob suitable for setting your final belay. The descent is straightforward with a short rappel down the backside, followed by an easy walk back to your packs—no complicated scrub or exposure here. Keep an eye out for remnants of old gear left by previous ascents; some placements may be questionable, so always trust your own judgment and double-check anchor integrity.
Rabbit Valley’s landscape pushes the edges of desert climbing with its sparse vegetation and exposed sandstone cliffs. The rock can deteriorate near the top pitches, so a cautious approach is crucial. Timing your climb during cooler parts of the day avoids overheating on sun-baked surfaces, especially in summer months. Whether you’re a seasoned trad climber wanting to sharpen aid skills or an intermediate climber stepping into mixed techniques, Elmer Fudd's 1000 Yard Stare offers a compact and rewarding adventure. Be sure to bring a well-rounded rack that covers smaller cams through #4 sizes and plenty of nuts, and consider a personal tool for backcountry encounters. This route blends old-school climbing grit with straightforward desert access, ensuring both challenge and enjoyment in a uniquely Western Colorado setting.
Watch out for deteriorating rock near the summit—this zone lacks solid holds and can break unexpectedly. Use caution when building your anchor and avoid relying on old fixed gear without thorough inspection. The desert heat and exposure also demand sufficient hydration and sun protection.
Start early to avoid the afternoon desert heat on exposed sandstone.
Practice offwidth techniques before attempting the first pitch’s narrow sections.
Double-check old anchors; replace questionable gear where possible.
Descend on the backside rappel to avoid loose rock on the approach trail.
Prepare with doubles from #0.3 to #3 Camalots, one #4, about five to six cams total, medium-sized nuts, a Valley Giant #9 cam, and 15 feet of webbing for anchors. Carrying a small .22 caliber rifle is an unconventional but practical choice for desert wildlife encounters. The rack may seem generous, but the protection variations demand flexibility and readiness.
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