"Electric Funeral is a demanding eight-pitch alpine trad climb on Wide Awake Tower in the Bugaboos, featuring a mix of loose rock sections and sustained technical climbing. This remote, commitment-heavy line challenges seasoned climbers with varied crack systems, a tricky approach, and a dramatic roof crux."
Electric Funeral carves a demanding eight-pitch path up Wide Awake Tower, set deep within the rugged wilderness of the Bugaboos in British Columbia. This remote alpine climb is etched into a granite pillar that tests both skill and resolve, inviting seasoned climbers to navigate through shifting rock conditions and varied crack systems. Starting with a coated snow gully approach that steels your legs and sharpens focus, you confront a route where nature’s unpredictability is ever-present. Loose rock shadows several pitches, demanding caution, especially early on, but the upper climbs reveal sustained, committed moves that reward with sweeping views over the Columbia Mountains’ granite spires and shimmering alpine lakes below.
The climb’s first pitch launches you into a steep crack system, where a bulge requires measured power and balance, transitioning into a stem corner laden with loose debris warning of the route’s raw character. Progression follows wide, clean cracks that offer solid placements—ideal for those armed with a rack heavy on cams from tiny microcams to #5 camalots. Pitches 5 through 8 hold the real prize: hand and finger cracks that demand finesse, lieback corners that enliven technique, and a final roof pull that tests body tension and mental grit. The last pitch’s crux stretches for fifty meters of strenuous climbing peppered with runouts and delicate gear, reminding climbers this route is a serious commitment both physically and mentally.
Descending the climb requires equally careful planning. Rappels require two 60m ropes, attentive navigation of often sparse or aged anchors, and extra cordage and biners for securing rigging. Loose rock remains a persistent hazard on the descent, necessitating vigilance and patience. The approach itself is no casual stroll—it weaves a snow gully climb with sections that may demand bold soloing or short pitches to reach the base, depending on conditions. This is wilderness climbing at its rawest: the landscape is imposing, the route demanding, and the payoff is a unique alpine adventure few have undertaken.
Electric Funeral is not only a physical challenge but an invitation to experience the Bugaboos’ wild energy from a rarely traveled angle. The granite’s sharp edges, the wide cracks, and the jagged contours speak to climbers who respect an alpine climb’s intricate dance of danger, skill, and beauty. Preparation is key: carry a full double rack from micro to large cams, limit loose gear, and be ready for shifting weather conditions that can turn this remote alpine zone from peaceful to perilous in moments. For those ready to commit, Electric Funeral delivers a rare blend of remoteness, technical climbing, and raw vertical expression.
Loose rock and unstable terrain characterize much of the climb and descent. Always test holds, wear a helmet, and prepare for unstable rappel anchors. The approach can be tricky with snow and loose pitch sections; move carefully to avoid falls or dislodging debris on climbers below.
Approach via the snow gully on Wide Awake Tower's far side; conditions can require a short pitch or cautious free soloing to reach the start ledge.
Tackle pitches five to eight with focus, as they offer the best climbing but include some runout sections and technical moves.
Two 60m ropes are essential for rappelling; bring extra cord and biners for establishing safe rappels, as some anchors are sparse or old.
Loose rock is common throughout; test all holds carefully and be aware during descent to avoid dislodging debris onto climbers below.
Bring a full double rack from micro cams (00 C3) through #3 Camalot, plus nuts and offset RPs. Larger #4 and #5 cams are useful for pitches two and three and can be left on the horn for retrieval during rappel. If skipping the thin left-facing corner on pitch one, fewer micro cams may suffice.
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