"Eeyore carves a quieter path through the Bugaboos’ alpine granite, offering six pitches of varied crack climbing with thoughtful route-finding. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a moderate but rewarding adventure off the beaten track."
Eeyore offers a quietly challenging trad route in the heart of the Bugaboos, offering climbers a rugged alpine experience away from the busier lines nearby. Approaching the climb, you have the option to simul-climb a ramp or take a direct start via the Ears Between route, easing into the rock’s welcome embrace. The first pitch skirts a 5.7 grade hand crack that demands careful route-finding—the path isn’t always clear, encouraging climbers to read the rock rather than rely solely on fixed markers. The rock here feels a bit dusty but manageable, amplifying the need for focus.
Pitch two drops into a sandy gully that momentarily softens the climb’s tone before you reach a broad ledge—a welcome perch for adjustments and regrouping. From here, pitch three invites vigilance; the more satisfying chimney feature lies just to the left but is easy to overlook, tempting many to veer directly toward sprawling black slabs that test your route judgment.
By pitch four, you reach a modest offwidth at the top of these slabs that can be tackled directly, but most climbers choose the safer, ridge-traversing descent ridgeline to gain a notch feature. Pitch five ramps the intensity back up with engaging hand cracks at 5.7 difficulty, culminating in a finger-crunching 5.9 leaning crack that marks the route’s crux—small protection here is critical and forces precise footwork and steady nerves.
Despite its relative solitude compared to busy neighbors Lions Way or Ears Between, Eeyore surprises with cleaner rock than expected and a route profile that rewards climbers who enjoy a mix of crack work and alpine thinking. The route blends quiet adventure with practical challenges, making it an excellent selection for those camping nearby who want a straightforward but thought-provoking alpine trad climb. Standard gear—especially small cams—covers protection well, and the all-gear anchors mean you won't be scrambling for placements at critical moments.
The climb’s tone is one of discovery, with nature’s features taking the lead—sand gullies whisper beneath your fingers, black slabs dare cautious footwork, and the leaning crack demands respect for every move. This is a route that asks you to trust your judgment and savor the irregular rhythms of climbing in this wild alpine landscape. Planning your bid around stable weather is ideal, as the Bugaboos can shift unexpectedly from calm to storm, making routefinding and descent far more complex.
For climbers edging into the alpine trad world, Eeyore provides a compelling balance of crack climbing and terrain nuance with fewer crowds. Grab your small cams, steady your focus, and prepare for a climb that rewards attentive movement on some of British Columbia’s prime granite rock.
Route-finding errors on pitch three can lead to more complex terrain on loose black slabs. Careful navigation and solid anchor building are essential. Weather changes can quickly complicate the descent ridge, so monitor forecasts closely before heading out.
Simul-climb the approach ramp for easier access or start directly via Ears Between for a more engaged start.
Pay close attention to pitch three—don’t miss the left chimney as the slabs can lead you off route.
Bring extra small cams for the final 5.9 pitch’s complex crack system.
Plan your climb for clear weather; descending the ridge in poor conditions increases risk.
A standard double rack covers the protection needs, with an emphasis on small cams for the tricky last pitch. All gear anchors provide secure belays throughout. Expect variable placements but solid protection overall.
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