"Edwards-Neufeld stands as a demanding alpine route on Crescent Towers, combining sustained crack climbing with exposed traverses. This eight-pitch journey challenges climbers with technical moves and mentally engaging positions among the grandeur of the Bugaboos."
Set against the rugged grandeur of the Purcell Mountains, the Edwards-Neufeld route on Crescent Towers offers a thrilling blend of alpine adventure and technical trad climbing. This eight-pitch ascent covers roughly 700 feet of vertical granite, demanding careful footwork, steady crack technique, and mental focus on a route that plays with exposure and intricate moves. From the outset, you’re greeted by a low-angle crack gently rising to a broad roof—this first pitch sets an inviting tone while testing your ability to read the rock’s angles and shifts in texture. The route meanders right across terraces and white walls, defining a line that balances climbing finesse with alpine boldness.
The third pitch is the climb’s defining challenge, featuring a splitter crack cleaving a clean white face. This sustained 5.10+ crux demands precise hand jams and body positioning, rewarding climbers who arrive prepared with technique and patience. Moments later, you’ll face the left-facing corner crack, pushing past a small off-width roof toward a solid flake and pedestal. This section stretches your mental game and gear placement, as the crack widens and narrows, requiring fluid movement and careful protection.
Midway through the climb, the route veers into its ‘mental crux,’ a delicate traverse out onto an exposed face reaching a broad sloping ledge. The sensation here is one of calculated exposure—the rock’s openness and airy stance urge caution and command clear focus. Beyond this, the chimney sections in the final pitches wind upward through breaks to a notch that feels carved by time and elements, a fine conclusion to a route that blends crack system navigation with alpine terrain.
Crescent Towers’ fragmented granite walls stand proudly within the Bugaboos, a climbing area renowned for its combination of granite towers sculpted by glaciers and shaped by wind. This approach requires careful planning: a solid approach on mountain trails cuts through alpine meadows and forest patches, where footing may be variable but easily manageable for those accustomed to alpine settings. The climb’s route demands a 70m rope, a standard double rack to #4 nuts, and 12-14 quickdraws to handle varied crack sizes and traverses. Expect secure but sometimes challenging placements, especially through the wider cracks and off-width moves.
Timing your climb to avoid afternoon storms is crucial here, as weather in the Columbia Mountains can shift quickly, turning exposed faces slick and dangerous. Early starts maximize daylight, and dry conditions ensure reliable friction, especially on the technical pitches. Don’t underestimate the importance of weather-proof, layered clothing—temperatures can vary sharply between the base and summit, and wind sweeps through the exposed ridges.
Edwards-Neufeld is prized not only for its technical demands but for the active dialogue it creates between climber and mountain—a terrain that reacts, challenges, and invites respect. Whether you’re seeking a solid alpine objective or an introduction to multi-pitch crack climbing in a high mountain environment, this route offers a rewarding journey marked by strategic gear choices, vivid landscapes, and a steady climb through ever-changing granite features.
Loose blocks present a hazard in the chimney pitches; climbers should exercise caution both when leading and belaying. Additionally, the traverses on pitch six require precise footwork to avoid slips on smooth sections. Weather at high elevation can turn quickly—always check forecasts and be ready for sudden wind or precipitation.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the Bugaboos.
Check current conditions for wet cracks—dry granite improves friction and gear placement.
Wear layered clothing; weather changes quickly in alpine environments.
Be prepared for some loose blocks in the chimney section—keep belayers clear of falling debris.
A 70m rope is essential to cover pitches safely. Bring a standard double rack from small cams up to #4 for crack protection, plus 12 to 14 draws for belays and traverses. Expect secure placements but exercise care on the wider off-width sections.
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