"East Side Story at Turkey Tail offers a technical, single-pitch 5.9 trad climb on Colorado’s South Platte. Featuring a unique chimney start and a memorable hand crack, it’s a must for off-width enthusiasts seeking solid protection and classic crack jams."
East Side Story stands at the eastern edge of Turkey Tail’s south face, offering a rugged, single-pitch 5.9 trad climb that's rooted in Colorado’s South Platte climbing scene. Accessible just uphill from the Journey to Ixtlan approach, this route begins in a distinctive chimney feature, where the rock forms a captivating off-width to the left of a slab, and a right-facing dihedral hugs the other side. This climb presents a variety of crack styles, from a challenging off-width to a crisp hand crack, rewarding climbers who appreciate technical jamming and natural rock features.
The approach to East Side Story is direct, positioned past Cheap Trick and before Turkey Tail’s south face tapers off completely. The climb starts by threading either side of the chimney; the right side tends to be more appealing despite some loose flakes, and an unexpected encounter with a few friendly bees suggests sticking to this side is a safer bet. Midway, the crack expands, allowing easier slab climbing and the use of the right-facing dihedral for upward movement. This section is where rhythm and balance come to the forefront, as climbers transition from wide hand jams into steeper terrain anchored by a stellar hand crack that’s short but sweet — a jewel of the route.
The crux revolves around locking into perfect number 2 Camalots, where secure jams pave the way to a comfortable belay perch. With the belay established, partners can efficiently move past the steeper tiers of the east end of Turkey Tail. At roughly 100 feet, this climb strikes a satisfying balance: long enough to feel substantial, yet short enough to fit within a half-day adventure.
Protection consists primarily of off-width staples—consider packing multiple #4 Camalots to confidently cover the wider sections, supported by #2 and #3 sizes for the tighter cracks. The rock quality is good overall, though loose flakes near the chimney demand cautious movement and extra attention to gear placements.
Descending involves rappelling from a tree located a few feet west of the route’s top, dropping back down the south face to the main Turkey Tail area. A single 60-meter rope is sufficient for this maneuver, but bringing a sling to wrap around the tree anchor will make for a smoother and safer descent.
In all, East Side Story offers a textured climbing experience that blends classic crack climbing with a taste of Colorado’s rugged granite terrain. It's an ideal outing for trad climbers aiming to sharpen their off-width technique while savoring the natural rhythm carved into Turkey Tail’s south face. Planning your day around mid-morning to early afternoon helps avoid lingering moisture on the slabs, and early season climbs mean fewer bugs and more stable rock conditions.
Remember to bring layered clothing, stable footwear suited for crack climbing, and enough water for the approach. The combination of technical crack challenges and straightforward access makes East Side Story a dependable trad route for those ready to match wits with the rock in a memorable setting.
Exercise caution around loose flakes at the chimney start and scout carefully before weighting any rock holds. Bees near the left side of the chimney can be a minor nuisance; choosing the right side mitigates this. The rappel tree anchor is solid but requires a sling to ensure safe descent.
Approach via the south face, starting uphill from Journey to Ixtlan trail.
Climb the right side of the chimney start to avoid bees and unstable flakes.
Bring a 60m rope and a sling for rappelling off a west-side tree anchor.
Begin climbs mid-morning to ensure dry slabs and manageable temperatures.
For this route, bring multiple #4 Camalots for the off-width sections and a selection of #2 and #3 Camalots for tighter cracks. Loose flakes near the chimney require secure placements and vigilance.
Upload your photos of East Side Story and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.