HomeClimbingEast Ridge

East Ridge of Bedayan Minaret: A High Sierra Alpine Tradition

Bishop, California United States
long alpine route
mixed terrain
knife-edge ridge
high exposure
traditional protection
multi-pitch
High Sierra
scrambling sections
Length: 1600 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
10
Location
East Ridge
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The East Ridge of Bedayan Minaret stands as a formidable alpine climb, combining sustained technical moves with sweeping exposure high in California’s Minarets. This route challenges climbers to master diverse terrain—from slick stem boxes to airy knife-edge scrambles—rewarded by unparalleled views and rich historic significance."

East Ridge of Bedayan Minaret: A High Sierra Alpine Tradition

Stretching upward nearly a thousand vertical feet above the icy remnants below, the East Ridge of Bedayan Minaret stakes its claim as one of the Minaret chain’s most commanding stone faces. This line is no casual stroll; it asks for focus on its first 80 feet—a compact but demanding crux that separates confident leaders from those still sizing up the route. But once past this threshold, the ridge releases much of its tension, offering long sections of exposed scrambling on surprisingly solid metavolcanic rock. Despite the seemingly relaxed terrain beyond the start, each pitch peppers in short bursts of 5th-class climbing that keep your hands busy and senses sharp.

The route is a study in variety and rhythm, shifting from tight stem boxes and bulges to airy dihedrals and narrow crenellated crests. Pitch one carves through a steep, blackened flake system where slickness meets bulging obstacles, demanding precise footwork and steady gear placements that reward patience. From there, the infamous Rusty Ramp on pitch two curves around a grassy amphitheater, offering a visual break before technical sequences resume along sharp aretes and headwalls.

Each rope length unfolds distinct terrain: from crack jams that test traditional protection skills, to extended hands-on sections tracing the spine of the ridge. The rock holds firm, lending confidence amidst exposure, while the skyline frames the approach of a short angular tower on pitch six, a pivot point before a 15-foot downclimb challenges downclimb nerves as much as technique. Beyond this, the route transitions into a battled dance along a narrow crest, where stone steps and gentle scrambles open panoramic views of the Minarets’ ragged crown.

The final pitches fine-tune your balance and focus, culminating in a knife-edge summit ridge where exhilaration and reverence meet. The summit log is discreet but storied — with entries from early pioneers and legends alike — reminding climbers they stand atop a chapter of alpine history.

Descent demands equal respect. The north ridge drop offers exposed downclimbing that can be deceptively committing, leading into the East Couloir’s notorious "bowling alley" of loose debris and potential rockfall hazards. Short rappels off slung blocks provide safe passage through the steepest sections, but daylight and caution are paramount. Trust in your planning: dark or hurried exits amplify risk here. After this stern descent, the snowfield’s steep final slide deposits you onto scree slopes above Iceberg Lake, linking you back to the safety of camp.

This is a climb that marries the physical with the mental, pushing you to manage route-finding, gear placement, and endurance amidst the raw grandeur of the High Sierra. Pack a solid rack up to 3 inches with an optional 4-inch piece for the widest cracks, stay hydrated and warm, and move with deliberate care. With strategy and respect, the East Ridge offers a fiercely rewarding day on one of California’s most striking alpine walls.

Climber Safety

The descent includes loose rock zones and a steep, narrow couloir known for rockfall. Avoid descending in the dark and be vigilant when setting up rappels. The ‘bowling alley’ rockfall hazard requires patience and layered protection—never rush this section.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches10
Length1600 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and rockfall risk on descent.

Wear sticky-soled shoes for the slick blackened stone on pitch one.

Rappel carefully on the descent; slung blocks are helpful but inspect all anchors.

Prepare for variable weather typical of High Sierra alpine environments.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a grade feels appropriately stiff at the opening pitch’s crux, demanding delicate stemming and confident moves on polished rock. Beyond that, the route shifts into mostly 4th and moderate 5th class climbing, making the grade feel concentrated rather than sustained. Compared to nearby Minaret classics, this climb offers a balanced challenge where the early difficulty sets the tone for a technical but manageable alpine adventure.

Gear Requirements

Standard traditional rack up to 3 inches is essential, with an optional 4-inch piece for the largest cracks. Expect to place pro frequently, especially on the steep opening pitch where secure gear is paramount.

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Tags

long alpine route
mixed terrain
knife-edge ridge
high exposure
traditional protection
multi-pitch
High Sierra
scrambling sections