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East Face - Ramp Route on Mt. Clarence King

Bishop, California United States
alpine
crack climbing
multi-pitch
snow approach
high exposure
remote
Length: 800 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
8
Location
East Face - Ramp Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A demanding alpine climb on Mt. Clarence King that combines snow approach with crack climbing and exposed ridge pitches. Remote and committing, it tests your gear and resolve from the first pitch to the summit’s final block."

East Face - Ramp Route on Mt. Clarence King

The East Face - Ramp Route on Mt. Clarence King stands as a challenge of both skill and resolve amid the rugged High Sierra. Situated in a remote pocket of California’s Sierra Nevada, this route demands serious commitment, beginning with a trek up snowfields that soften the early approach before the rock climbing starts. The first two pitches guide you along a ramp system alive with cracks curling through the corner, their edges textured for confident grip. Traversing right toward the face's edge, the rock subtly shifts the pace, inviting climbers to tune into the line of least resistance while staying anchored to well-placed protection.

Pitches three through five drop the technical intensity to solid class 3 terrain, allowing for steady but purposeful movement as you navigate toward the summit’s exit cracks. These ledges offer a brief respite on gritty sand before the mountain’s angle increases again, ushering in steeper ground that tests both footwork and nerve. The final three pitches return to a 5.8 difficulty rating, where well-protected cracks resist the pull of gravity and call for precise technique on the east ridge. This section balances technical demands with rewarding exposure—each move feels earned as the summit block looms with quiet menace. Climbing it requires poise; the rock here is unforgiving but fair, daring you to commit fully and push beyond hesitation.

Pack a standard alpine rack with an ice axe on hand for seasonal snow conditions, as early ice or late spring pockets can catch the unprepared. The descent demands equal attention—a solo downclimb of the Bolton Brown (South Face) Route rated 5.4, demanding careful footing and respect for loose rock and shifting weather. This climb offers a true alpine adventure: the remoteness pulls you from the hum of crowds into a landscape that feels ancient, where each crack and ledge tells the story of ages carved by wind and stone.

Planning your ascent means factoring in a long approach and variable conditions. Early season snowfields can still guard the entry, while summer brings dry, stable rock but often heat that emphasizes starting climbs early in the day. Water is sparse; bring enough hydration to sustain your energy throughout the approach and climb. Footwear with solid edging ability and comfort for movement along mixed terrain will pay dividends. This route is a concentrated lesson in alpine climbing’s essence—technical skill, mental grit, and a humble respect for the mountain’s shifting moods.

Climber Safety

The remote nature of the route means self-sufficiency is vital. Watch for loose rock zones near the summit block and transition carefully from snow to rock. The descent down the Bolton Brown Route demands precise navigation—falling hazards increase with wet or icy conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches8
Length800 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and possible weather changes.

Hydrate well—water sources are limited near the approach.

Be prepared for mixed conditions: snow on the lower ramp transitioning to solid granite cracks.

Solo descent requires careful route-finding and stable footing; don’t underestimate this step.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels consistent across the route, with the cruxes concentrated on the initial ramp pitches and the final steep crack sequences. The class 3 middle pitches offer a breather but require attention to terrain. Compared to other High Sierra climbs, this route strikes a balance between technical trad moves and alpine endurance, with no overly stiff crux but no pitch to take lightly either.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard alpine rack with protection sized for crack climbing. An ice axe is essential during early or late season due to lingering snow on the approach and pitches.

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Tags

alpine
crack climbing
multi-pitch
snow approach
high exposure
remote