Mt. Clarence King - Remote High Sierra Alpine Trad Climbing

Independence, California
alpine
trad
multi-pitch
high altitude
remote
exposed
classic route
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
High Sierra Wilderness
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mt. Clarence King stands as a remote alpine giant in California’s High Sierra, challenging climbers with historic routes and a rigorous approach. This peak promises solitude, stunning views, and classic trad climbing at altitude in a wild, windswept landscape."

Mt. Clarence King - Remote High Sierra Alpine Trad Climbing

Mt. Clarence King rises sharply amidst the High Sierra’s rugged expanse, a peak steeped in history and challenge. Named for the legendary USGS explorer and author, this mountain is no casual outing — it demands commitment, grit, and respect. The rock stands cold and windswept, exposed to the open sky where weather can shift in an instant. Approaching Clarence King is not a simple day trip; it unfolds as a multi-day journey into the heart of California’s most pristine alpine wilderness.

The classic traversal to reach this peak starts from Onion Valley, just off Highway 395 near Independence. Your first day is a steady climb over Kearsarge Pass, opening into the serene Charlotte Lake basin. From there, a hidden shortcut trail leads you up to Glen Pass, revealing breathtaking views of the Brewer Group, solid reminders that you’re deep in the mountains’ core. Descending via Rae Lakes trail only sets the stage for the real wilderness—traversing Rae Col and entering Sixty Lake Basin, home to scattered campsites and quiet mornings wrapped in alpine air.

The climbing here honors tradition and grit, exemplified by Bolton Brown’s South Face Route—one of the Sierra’s toughest ascents of the 19th century. This route features a striking overhanging block at the summit that sits precariously above the abyss, creating a classic finish that is both thrilling and demanding. Beyond this, the East Face - Ramp Route (5.8) and the North East Ridge (full) (5.7) offer solid alpine climbs, consistently praised for their commitment and character.

At 12,905 feet, altitude plays its part—thin air brings a sharper edge to effort, and clear mountain days come with cold, brisk winds. The remote setting means climbers need to be self-reliant, prepared for a granite playfield largely untouched by crowds or modern conveniences. Gear choices should lean toward traditional protection suited for alpine trad routes, keeping light but comprehensive racks on hand. Because there’s no straightforward walk-up descent, descending carefully along the South Face Route is critical. The terrain demands full attention and respect to avoid slips and route-finding errors.

Timing your trip through the High Sierra is key — summer months (July through September) deliver the most stable weather window, though sudden afternoon storms still loom. Early starts maximize daylight and give you room to enjoy the climb without rushing. This is a place where silence and exposure mingle, where the approach, the climb, and the descent all form parts of the same rugged adventure.

For those ready to venture into the Sierra’s heart, Mt. Clarence King provides a rewarding blend of history, solitude, and alpine challenge. It’s not just a mountain to summit—it’s an experience carved into granite and sky, perfect for climbers who value both the journey and the climb. Whether plotting your approach via Rae Lakes and Sixty Lake Basin or preparing for a careful descent over the South Face, every step here is a deep breath of wilderness, a call to test your skills and savor the High Sierra’s undeniable pull.

Climber Safety

Due to the exposed summit block and steep terrain, descending requires care and experience with route-finding. Loose rock is common near the top, and the remote, high-altitude environment demands proper preparation for sudden weather changes and limited rescue options.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early from Onion Valley to avoid afternoon storms and maximize daylight.

Use the old Starr’s Guide shortcut between Charlotte Lake and Glen Pass to save time and enjoy spectacular views.

Scout campsites in the Sixty Lake Basin early to settle in before attempting the climb.

Descend by retracing Bolton Brown’s South Face Route with caution, paying attention to loose rock and exposure.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbs at Mt. Clarence King fall into the moderate YDS grades 5.7 to 5.8 range, but these routes carry serious alpine commitment that can amplify perceived difficulty. The climbing itself is considered straightforward but the approach, altitude, and exposure elevate the challenge, making it less forgiving than a typical crag. Climbers accustomed to High Sierra alpine walls will find the grade consistent with many regional classics.

Gear Requirements

The routes here demand solid trad gear with a focus on alpine rack essentials. Due to the remote setting and challenging terrain, a full trad rack with cams and nuts covering a broad range is recommended. Climbers should be prepared for mixed terrain and employ careful gear placement on the classic routes.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

alpine
trad
multi-pitch
high altitude
remote
exposed
classic route