The East Face of the Turret carves a compelling path through the jagged spires of Little Slide Canyon, offering climbers an immersive alpine experience that balances steady challenge with rewarding terrain. Stretching roughly 800 feet over nine pitches, this route is by far one of the longest climbs on the Little Slide Spires, demanding not just technical ability but careful planning and a keen eye for navigation. The approach places you in the heart of California’s High Sierra, where rocky outcrops rise sharply against a backdrop of pine and sky, inviting climbers seeking a quiet adventure beyond heavily trafficked climbs.

From the ground, the route begins at a distinctive pair of splitter cracks on a buttress—you’ll recognize these straightaway and know you're lined up correctly. The first pitch moves swiftly on grooves and cracks to a large ledge with a bolted anchor, serving as a solid starting point. Pitch two stakes a claim through offwidth sections and face climbs requiring precise hand and footwork. This pitch rewards persistence—nuts, small cams, and some bold moves over an overlap lead you upward, with protection well-placed but requiring thoughtful gear management.

The third pitch stands out: a flared chimney leads you to a roof that must be negotiated carefully at 5.9 difficulty, then sweeps into a right crack that challenges with sinker-hand jams for some 30 feet. This section is the heart of the climb, where natural features seem alive, daring you through the sustained, splitter crack. Be mindful here—some widely circulated photos suggest an alternate traverse below a large roof, but sticking close to the cracks is key to avoiding a much harder route.

As you press higher, the groove of pitch four introduces mellow offwidth climbing with some face moves. It’s low angle but demands comfort with offwidth technique and a respect for loose, dirt-covered ledges. Pitch five begins the alpine puzzle of the upper half—scrambling ledges and searching out the right line become critical, testing navigation skills underfoot.

The middle pitches introduce more challenging terrain with some less solid rock, requiring extra caution. Notably, pitch six navigates a detached pinnacle using chimneying moves that feel like a dialog with the rock, moving in and out of features as if the formation itself shifts beneath your grip. Pitch seven provides relief—a corner climb past a 5.8 roof gains momentum, finishing on a sloping ledge. Here, your largest camalot should come into play, as a wide offwidth demands serious jamming strength and secure gear placement.

Pitch eight continues up ledges, progressing to a widening offwidth paired with a thin crack. Stemming and crack climbing blend into a varied sequence, with moves at 5.9 that engage and challenge. Above the main wall, the route’s final efforts involve a scramble up tricky ledges and chimneys, complicated by some route-finding ambiguity—stick close to solid features to reach the summit spire’s base.

The summit pitch is a technical dance of chimneys and stemmed positions, capped with a reach to a jug on the arete. These final meters remind you why this climb is significant: it requires a mixture of alpine savvy, strength, and problem-solving, wrapped in quiet wilderness that feels far from crowded trails.

Gear requirements focus on traditional protection up to 4 inches, with essential offwidth cams and some smaller pieces to manage crack sizes along the route. Rope drag is a factor—keeping pitches short helps, especially higher up where ledges multiply and rope management becomes critical.

The approach takes you into a remote section of the High Sierra, with well-worn trails that climb steadily through forest and scree. Expect approximately 1.5 to 2 hours to reach the base, with GPS coordinates to guide your planning. Climbers should prepare for variable weather common at elevation, bring sturdy footwear for loose rock and uneven ground, and pack adequate hydration and layers.

In all, the East Face of the Turret rewards those ready to leave behind busy classics for a route rich in hands-on climbing and alpine sensibility. Its combination of crack systems, offwidth challenges, and route-finding nuances make it an engaging objective for those comfortable with Grade IV terrain and a taste for the less obvious paths of the Sierra Nevada.