"Eagle Point Left in Vermont delivers a concentrated collection of splitter crack climbs highlighted by Hot Seat in Hell, one of the area’s best 5.11d trad routes. Approached by a scenic 20-minute trail past several smaller crags, it offers climbers solid protection, technical challenge, and a rewarding wilderness setting."
Eagle Point Left in Vermont offers a raw and rewarding climbing experience, boasting some of the area's finest splitter crack lines and challenging trad routes. The crown jewel of this sector is Hot Seat in Hell (5.11d), a demanding splitter crack that has earned its reputation for solid protection and intense climbing. Beyond this standout classic, the area features excellent routes like Burning Soles (5.11a), Platitude (5.11b), and the more moderate Eagle Point Crack (5.9), providing options for climbers eager to explore high-quality cracks on solid rock.
The journey to Eagle Point is part of the adventure. Hikers and climbers follow a well-used climbers’ trail for about 20 minutes, passing several small trailside crags that hint at the climbing richness in this Vermont corner. The access route winds beyond the Great Corner area, leading climbers through forested terrain punctuated by the sounds of nature and occasional vistas. Upon arriving, many find it worthwhile to pause and absorb the landscape before gearing up.
A notable approach challenge is Ethan’s Delight, a technical route with a key bolt protecting the low crux. It demands a 70 meter rope for rappelling, and knot-tying is highly recommended for safety. From the top of this climb, a faint path leads up through the woods to the Eagle Point Left climbing area proper. Climbers appreciate the community spirit encouraged here: bringing a trash bag to help clean the lookout area above can feel like paying one’s dues to this wild space.
Elevation at Eagle Point Left sits around 2,375 feet, offering conditions that can vary with the seasons. Climbers should be mindful of seasonal raptor closures that protect nesting birds—checking cragvt.org prior to a visit helps to avoid conflicts and preserve the local environment. The rock quality merits careful gear choices, as crack protection is essential along these splitter lines.
While the technical grades range from moderate to advanced, the climbs maintain a natural flow thanks to the quality of the schist rock and the thoughtful placement of protection. Expect sharp finger cracks, precise footwork, and the satisfaction of clean placements. Eagle Point offers a demanding yet approachable experience for trad climbers ready to push into crack climbing or sharpen their skills on pitches rated from 5.9 up to challenging 5.11s.
Beyond climbing, the area’s atmosphere rewards visitors with quiet forest trails and sweeping views that capture the wild essence of Vermont’s Northern Green Mountains. The mix of accessible approach, solid routes, and a chance to climb classic routes like Hot Seat in Hell make Eagle Point Left a must-visit for any climber seeking a blend of challenge and natural beauty.
Whether you come prepared with a guidebook like Tough Schist or rely on local beta, Eagle Point Left invites you to climb smart and leave with a deep sense of accomplishment. Prepare for a day of climbing that tests your crack skills, respect for the environment, and your ability to read the rock. This is Vermont climbing at its rugged best.
Approach involves forest trails with some faint paths requiring navigation skills. The rappel descent from Ethan’s Delight requires a full 70 meter rope and knot tying to avoid rappelling off the ends. Seasonal closures protect raptors — be sure to confirm access dates to avoid conflicts. Bring gear suited to protect splitter cracks and expect sharp edges on schist rock.
Check cragvt.org for seasonal raptor closures before planning your trip.
Bring a trash bag to help clean up the lookout area above Eagle Point Left.
Use a 70m rope and tie knots when rappelling Ethan’s Delight to ensure a safe descent.
Consult Tough Schist guidebook for detailed topos and advanced beta.
A 70 meter rope is essential for descent via rappelling on routes like Ethan’s Delight, with knots tied in the rope recommended for added safety. Bring a comprehensive trad rack to protect splitter cracks, focusing on small cams and nuts along with standard sizes for hand and fist jams.
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