The Great Corner - Classic Climbing on Wheeler Mountain, Vermont

Montpelier, Vermont
slab
headwall
trad
aid
multi-pitch
clean rock
seasonal closures
well-traveled
Length: approximately 150 ft
Type: Trad | Aid
Stars
Pitches
single pitch, multi-pitch
Protected Place
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Great Corner offers climbers a rewarding mix of clean slabs and a towering headwall in Vermont’s Northern region. From easy slabs to challenging aid climbs, this well-traveled area features classic routes like VJ's and EthWheel Crack, making it a must-visit for climbers seeking variety and solid rock."

The Great Corner - Classic Climbing on Wheeler Mountain, Vermont

Set against the quiet backdrop of Wheeler Mountain in Northern Vermont, The Great Corner presents a climbing experience that balances accessibility with challenge. At an elevation of roughly 1,940 feet, this site’s defining feature is the imposing headwall known as The Great Corner, which dominates the landscape above a series of cleaner slab climbs. The approach carries you past a striking house-sized boulder, then follows a climbers path alongside the base of the cliffs. In about five minutes, you’ll arrive at a generous flat area directly beneath the Great Corner itself, setting the stage for a day of exploration and ascent.

Here, the rock offers a broad spectrum of climbing styles. The lower slabs welcome climbers with smooth, technical moves that reward balance and finesse. As you ascend, the rock steepens into a headwall that tests your strength and technique, culminating in classic climbs that have earned respect within the local community. Notable among these are VJ’s, an approachable 5.5 rated route, EthWheel Crack which challenges at 5.10c, and the Great Corner itself, a solid 5.11a that promises a compelling test for those reaching for it.

The routes at The Great Corner are known for being generally clean and well-traveled, with a tidy, well-maintained feel to the climbs that speaks to a strong culture of stewardship. Because of their popularity, many climbers find the holds sharp and the rock reliably solid, making it ideal for both trad and aid climbing where applicable. The diversity here allows beginners to build confidence on slabs before pushing into steeper, more demanding terrain.

Weather in this part of Vermont can change quickly, but the climbing season typically stretches from spring through fall. Climbers should be aware of seasonal raptor closures that impact access—details can be found on local conservation sites such as cragvt.org. These seasonal restrictions help protect nesting birds and keep the area sustainable for future generations of climbers.

The approach trail is straightforward and well-worn: after passing the large boulder, the path continues along the base of the cliffs, making navigation intuitive for first-time visitors. Given the elevation and the northern Vermont location, expect cool, fresh air and forested surrounds that offer welcome shade during summer ascents. This setting supplies both the calm and the adrenaline that make climbing at The Great Corner memorable.

For gear, a typical rack suited for slab and headwall trad routes will suffice, including a standard set of cams and nuts. Since some climbs lean into aid techniques, bringing aid-specific gear could be beneficial for those attempting the upper tier lines. Helmets are recommended to protect against occasional rockfall given the vertical nature of the headwall section.

Descents vary by route, but the most common is a walk-off via the same approach trail, which is short and manageable. Make sure to plan your timing to avoid afternoon thunderstorms or cold snaps common in Vermont’s mountain zones.

The Great Corner is a slice of Vermont climbing that offers a refreshing blend of challenge and charm. Whether you're polishing slab skills or looking to tackle a sustained headwall climb with a touch of aid, the area holds a strong appeal. Classic routes like VJ's, EthWheel Crack, and The Great Corner itself promise varied climbing experiences in a pristine mountain setting, accessible to those who value clean rock and a welcoming climbing community.

Climber Safety

Seasonal raptor closures restrict access during nesting periods—adhere strictly to posted dates to avoid fines and protect wildlife. The approach is short but steep in places; stay alert for loose rock especially near the headwall. Helmets are highly recommended due to occasional rockfall.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Aid
Pitchessingle pitch, multi-pitch
Lengthapproximately 150 feet

Local Tips

Plan climbs around seasonal raptor closures—check cragvt.org before heading out.

Approach follows a clear climbers path past a large boulder—allow about five minutes from there to base.

Bring layered clothing—mountain weather can shift quickly even during prime season.

Watch for loose rock near the Great Corner headwall; keep helmets on at all times.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The Great Corner features climbs ranging from moderate slab routes at 5.5 to more challenging headwall lines up to 5.11a. The grades here generally feel fair, with the area’s clean rock and quality holds making for an honest test. Compared to some Northeastern cliffs that can be sandbagged, these routes deliver a reliable sense of what the rating implies, offering solid options for both novice and experienced climbers.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack is essential, with cams and nuts suitable for slab and headwall climbs. Aid gear is recommended for the harder upper routes. Helmets advised due to occasional rockfall on steeper sections.

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Tags

slab
headwall
trad
aid
multi-pitch
clean rock
seasonal closures
well-traveled