e^(2): Technical Trad Climb on the Acropolis Arête

Whitehorse, Canada
finger crack
roof crux
positive holds
fixed anchors
remote
single pitch
technical trad
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
e^(2)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"e^(2) presents a tight, technical trad pitch on Yukon’s Acropolis, blending bolt-protected starts with finger-sized placements through a demanding roof and onto a prominent arête. Perfect for climbers seeking a focused challenge in a remote northern setting."

e^(2): Technical Trad Climb on the Acropolis Arête

e^(2) offers a sharp, focused trad climb on one of the Yukon Territory's more compelling rock features. Starting with a bold, clipped approach on two bolts, the route immediately tests your ability to blend sport ease with trad strategy. The corner climb demands steady footwork and confidence in finger-sized protection as you ascend through a subtle roof. This feature isn’t just an obstacle—it dares you forward, rewarding precise movement and mental clarity. Beyond the roof, the line shifts right, hugging the arête where solid, positive holds allow runners to maintain rhythm and pace. The rock’s cool, slightly rough texture speaks to Yukon’s rugged character, providing enough friction to feel secure in each move without demanding overreach. Measures around 80 feet and contained in one solid pitch, this route is a dense shot of technical climbing that blends natural movement with consistent protection. Anchors sit firmly atop, ready for quick and safe top-outs. To approach, expect wilderness quiet and a sense of vast openness, as the Acropolis stands watch over distant alpine terrain stressing the territory’s raw appeal. Ideal gear includes a light rack with small nuts and cams (BD 0.3 to 0.4 are essential), plus quickdraws to clip the starting bolts safely. Daylight hits the face best from mid-morning to early afternoon, making timing important for optimal grip on the stone. Climbers report this grade lands true to 5.10d, with a technical crux at the roof that may challenge even solid 5.10 leaders, but overall it feeds well into Yukon’s collection of steep, focused lines. Respect any inclement weather—conditions shift quickly in the North, with wet rock becoming dangerously slick. The approach trail is straightforward but exposed; bring shoes fit for uneven terrain and pack enough water for the full day. Descending is a simple rappel from fixed anchors, with solid placements throughout and no tricky moves to worry about after the send. All told, e^(2) is a precise exercise for climbers aiming to sharpen trad skill while soaking in a remote alpine environment rarely crowded with others. It’s a route that balances challenge and enjoyment, asking for attention at every hold and rewarding commitment with a confident send and expansive northern views.

Climber Safety

Be mindful that the roof section can become perilous if damp or slippery, as moisture increases risk of slipping at key holds. Also, the approach may involve uneven ground—sturdy footwear and careful footing minimize chances of trips or ankle twists.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the day to take advantage of morning sun warming the rock.

Carry layered clothing; northern climates can shift rapidly between sun and chill.

Ensure cams in the 0.3 to 0.4 range are in your rack — crucial for secure placements on the climb.

Rappel carefully using fixed anchors. Check slings and hardware before descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating sits firmly in the moderately stiff range, largely due to the technical roof move early on. While the bolts ease initial exposure, the transition to natural protection and the arête push the sustained difficulty. Compared to other Yukon climbs, e^(2) demands precise movement more than brute strength, making it an engaging step up after solid 5.9 routes.

Gear Requirements

Begin with clipping two bolts to safely access the corner. Bring a rack emphasizing finger-sized protections—cam sizes BD 0.3 and 0.4 are vital for the natural cracks beyond the bolts. Quickdraws for the bolts and a standard rack for the arête sections allow confident protection placement throughout.

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Tags

finger crack
roof crux
positive holds
fixed anchors
remote
single pitch
technical trad