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Duncan's Delight: A Hand Jam Classic in Dolores Canyon

Dolores, Colorado United States
hand crack
fist jams
single pitch
trad
Dolores Canyon
5.9
Length: 160 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Duncan's Delight
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Duncan's Delight delivers an authentic crack climb experience in Dolores Canyon. This single-pitch trad route features hand and fist jams that test technique and patience, set against the raw backdrop of Colorado’s rugged rock."

Duncan's Delight: A Hand Jam Classic in Dolores Canyon

Duncan's Delight offers climbers a gratifying journey up a striking hand crack carved into the cliffs of Dolores Canyon, Colorado. From the moment you set hands on the rock, the crack invites you to engage with its well-formed jams, beginning with comfortable handholds that gradually grow into more challenging fist jams as you near the top. This one-pitch climb, stretching roughly 160 feet, rewards patience and technique over power, making it a standout for climbers who appreciate the feel of natural rock features rather than relying on bolts or artificial holds.

The approach is straightforward, placing you right below the base of the crack that catches the morning light, highlighting every curve and pocket. The canyon itself holds a quiet strength, with the rock face standing tall against a backdrop of expansive Colorado skies, punctuated by the gentle rustle of piñons and scrub oak lighting the foothills below. The crack’s texture is smooth but honest, requiring precise hand placements and a calm rhythm to make steady progress.

Preparation here centers on gear selection; bring an extensive collection of hand-sized cams to secure your protection reliably throughout the climb, as the crack widens near the top and demands a few larger pieces. Familiarity with crack climbing techniques will serve you well, especially on the transition from hand jams to the more open fist jams at the upper sections. The climb’s 5.9 rating feels approachable yet demanding, challenging you to trust your placements and maintain focus.

For those planning their adventure, morning climbs offer the best light and cooler temperatures, while afternoons can warm the rock significantly. The protected nature of Dolores Canyon shields the climb from strong winds, but weather shifts can be sharp and sudden—check forecasts carefully. Hydration is crucial; there are no amenities nearby, so bring water and snacks to fuel your ascent and return.

Duncan's Delight honors the simplicity of crack climbing in a region known for rugged beauty and reliable rock quality. It’s a climb where the geological story is told through your hands, where each jam and movement connects you physically and mentally to the cliff. Whether you're refining technique or seeking a memorable single-pitch trad experience, this route stands ready to challenge and reward in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Watch for polished rock in the upper crack sections that can make placements feel less secure. The crack widens noticeably near the top, requiring larger cams and increased attention to gear placement. Weather can change quickly, so check local forecasts before your climb.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb in the morning to benefit from cooler rock and clearer light.

Bring plenty of hand-sized cams plus a few larger sizes for upper crack protection.

Hydrate well before the climb; no water sources are available nearby.

Focus on slow, deliberate hand jams to conserve energy and maintain control.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Duncan’s Delight sits comfortably with classic crack climbs in the area, feeling fair with a technical crux transitioning from tight hand jams to wider fist jams. It demands solid crack technique rather than brute strength, similar to nearby moderate crack routes but with more sustained hand jamming.

Gear Requirements

A full rack of hand-sized cams is essential for protection, with a couple of larger cams needed near the top where the crack widens. Be prepared for placements that demand careful choices and steady placements.

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Tags

hand crack
fist jams
single pitch
trad
Dolores Canyon
5.9