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DuMais Route on the Lower Great Face

Estes Park, Colorado United States
slabby
finger crack
multi-pitch
technical gear
runout
Estes Park
Length: 210 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
DuMais Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"DuMais Route delivers a solid two-pitch trad climb on the Lower Great Face with slabby face moves and a technical finger crack. It’s an engaging introduction to careful gear placement combined with careful footwork amid sweeping vistas of Estes Park Valley."

DuMais Route on the Lower Great Face

DuMais Route stands as a straightforward yet rewarding challenge on the Lower Great Face, set within the sprawling, rugged landscape of Estes Park Valley, Colorado. This two-pitch traditional climb demands both precise footwork and a calm approach to spacing, as the route is marked by solid, slabby face holds that test balance more than brute strength. Starting from the high saddle between Castaway and the LGF, climbers step onto a left-hand buttress that demands attention and respect. The rock’s texture is unforgiving but reliable, featuring solid edges and flakes that provide steady purchase once found. The first pitch begins with a left-facing flake that opens into a featured 5.7 slab, ascending about 60 feet to the top of the flatiron. Moving deliberately here is essential; the exposures reveal the valley’s vastness, with glimpses of the highway winding far below and forested ridges that push into the horizon.

Transitioning from P1 to P2, the route follows a solitary finger crack that challenges your hand jams and finger locks. This section is where technique truly becomes the focus — the crack carves a narrow, vertical line that climbers skirt before arching left around a horizontally incut rail. From there, it reaches the right-facing dihedral on the buttress’s left shoulder. Rated 5.8 and stretching roughly 150 feet, this pitch is slightly more committing. The face offers solid protection opportunities with mid to small cam placements, requiring climbers to command both gear placement and route-reading skills. At the top of the dihedral, a spacious ledge rewards the effort, providing a break before the walk-off descent. There’s an alternative rightward variation at the finger crack’s summit—adding a tactical commitment without increasing the grade.

Protection demands a versatile rack, emphasizing mid to small stoppers, along with TCUs and slings to manage tricky placements in the tighter crack segments. The route’s runout nature necessitates cautious progression and a steady nerve, particularly on the slab moves where falls could be harsh. However, those prepared find here an accessible trad climb with enough nuance to engage intermediate climbers without overwhelming them.

The approach is as much a part of the experience as the climb itself—starting at the saddle near well-trafficked highway 7, it’s a brief but moderate trek over rocky terrain, roughly 15 to 20 minutes from the nearest parking area. The Lower Great Face’s position offers sweeping views and a mixture of sunlight and shade through early morning and late afternoon, which can be critical for optimal friction on the slab. Spring to early fall remains the best window to attempt the route, when rock temperatures are friendly and weather is predictably dry.

For descent, the walk-off route is straightforward but requires attention to footing—sloping ledges and scree sections lead back toward the base and trailhead without the need for rappel, allowing for a smooth transition from climb back to trail. DuMais Route represents a solid introduction to traditional techniques and multi-pitch management within the dynamic setting of the Estes Park climbing community. Whether you’re honing crack skills or looking to mix slab moves with gear placements, this climb balances accessibility with enough challenge to reward focus and care.

Climber Safety

Runout sections demand climbers keep a steady composure and double-check gear placements. Slabby terrain can be slippery when wet or dusty, so avoid climbing in damp conditions. The walk-off, while straightforward, has loose scree patches requiring careful footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length210 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch morning shade on the slab for better friction.

Bring extra TCUs for the finger crack — smaller cams may feel more secure here.

Be prepared for runout sections, especially on pitch one; steady feet and careful clipping are key.

Plan for a 15-20 minute approach hike and allocate time for a controlled walk-off descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R rating reflects a climb that, while technically moderate, carries a serious runout factor that keeps climbers mentally engaged. The slab pitch feels approachable for those comfortable on moderate slab, but the protection rating emphasizes cautious movement. The crack pitch ups the ante slightly with finger jams and strategic placements. Compared to other routes in The Crags, DuMais offers a blend of slab balance and crack technique that’s less intense than the nearby 5.9s but more involved than simpler 5.7 slabs.

Gear Requirements

A careful selection of mid to small stoppers, TCUs, and slings is essential to protect the slabby face and finger crack sections. The runout nature calls for confident placements and well-practiced rack management.

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Tags

slabby
finger crack
multi-pitch
technical gear
runout
Estes Park