5.9, Trad
Bishop
California ,United States
"Duct Taped Plum offers two pitches of solid trad climbing in the secluded Cyanide Gully near Bishop, California. Combining well-protected crack work with technical stemming, this route balances straightforward movement with enough challenge to engage trad climbers honing their skills."
Duct Taped Plum is a straightforward yet rewarding multi-pitch trad route tucked within the rugged confines of Cyanide Gully, part of the Pine Creek Canyon system on California’s Sierra Eastside. The climb stretches roughly 200 feet across two committed pitches that blend solid hand jams, technical stemming, and a mix of vertical and horizontal flakes that challenge the climber’s footwork and finger strength alike. The approach guides you through a pine-studded canyon, where the scent of dry forest mingles with the crisp mountain air, creating a quiet, focused atmosphere before the vertical work begins.
The first pitch eases you in with a clean dihedral featuring well-weathered flakes rated around 5.6. These provide reliable holds that test your technique without overwhelming, making it a perfect entry pitch for climbers looking to sharpen tradition skills. This pitch concludes at a bolted belay, which cleverly shares space with the neighboring "Africa Flake" route—an established feature in this local climbing pocket.
Pushing past the initial belay, the route unfolds into a corner system demanding more sustained effort. The 5.9 second pitch requires climbers to master tight hand jams combined with stemming moves that keep the body pressed against the rock face. The subtle nuances of crack width here ask for precise gear placements and well-timed moves. This pitch ends at a bolted anchor, ready for descent.
While an optional third pitch rated at 5.7 is mentioned by locals, it remains untested in this guide. Descent is managed with two single rope rappels from the second anchor, streamlining your retreat after the climb.
Protection is straightforward: a standard rack accommodates the route’s flake and crack systems, supplemented by bolted anchors that offer secure belay points—a reassurance amidst this rugged canyon wall. The rock itself is high-quality, surprisingly solid for this area, but as always, gear placements should be tested carefully.
Cyanide Gully lies a short drive from Bishop, CA, a well-known hub for outdoor adventurers, making logistics simpler with accessible amenities nearby while offering a feeling of escape. The climb’s exposure to sunlight varies, with morning shade giving way to direct afternoon sun, which can influence your timing for comfort during warmer months.
For anyone eager to combine classic Sierra Nevada trad style with manageable moderate climbing, Duct Taped Plum delivers a balanced experience. It’s inviting yet demands respect for proper technique and route-finding. Whether confirming gear skills or chasing a solid multi-pitch challenge, this route offers both a tangible sense of accomplishment and a visceral connection to the granite walls that define the region.
Though the rock quality is generally solid, pay close attention to gear placement, especially on horizontal flakes and blocky ledges. Loose rock is minimal but remain vigilant, as some ledges can be narrow and require solid belaying techniques. The descent involves two rappels—ensure your rope length covers both safely.
Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the lower pitches.
Double-check gear placements on horizontal flakes before committing.
Two rappels from the second anchor will safely get you down—bring a 60m rope.
Approach path can get loose in sections; solid footwear and careful footing are recommended.
Carry a standard trad rack focusing on cams and nuts suitable for vertical and horizontal flakes. Bolt anchors secure belays, but good pro placement skills are essential for the moving pitches.
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