"Drumstick to What offers a compact but technical 40-foot sport climb in California’s High Desert. Starting with a unique arch and moving onto a feature-rich face, this route challenges climbers with precise moves and careful foot placements, perfect for those seeking a short yet demanding climb."
Tucked into the rugged landscape of California’s High Desert, Drumstick to What invites climbers into an intimate encounter with solid rock and subtle complexity. The route begins with a distinctive small arch perched beside a deep hueco, where the arch’s pillar rises like a drumstick—an unmistakable landmark that catches the eye before the hands leave the ground. From here, the path carves up a left-leaning line that follows the first two bolts, demanding precise footwork on moderate crimps, while the rock’s texture offers just enough friction to keep each movement confident.
Passing the initial bolts, the climb veers boldly right onto an open face, where the spacing between bolts grows and the difficulty softens. This stretch opens into a rhythm that feels more manageable but still requires attentive balance and subtle body positioning. Though the route is brief, covering roughly 40 feet in a single pitch, it packs a punch that belies its length. Climbers sticking strictly to the bolt line might find the experience edging into the realm of 10b, a reminder that shortcuts often raise the stakes here.
Beyond the specifics of the move sequences, the High Desert setting frames this climb with a raw, sun-drenched atmosphere. The rock holds warmth underfoot and in the palms, while the dry air sharpens breathing and focus alike. Access is straightforward, making it a perfect spot for a quick yet rewarding session, whether you’re tuning up for longer routes or seeking an accessible challenge with old-school sport bolting reliability.
Preparation is simple but crucial: sturdy shoes with precise edging will help on the technical lower moves, and a light rack centered around quickdraws suffices thanks to the bolted protection. Late spring through fall offers the most comfortable conditions, as the face basks in ample sunlight but samples the dryness that keeps friction high. Approach trails are short and clear, making the climb approachable yet engaging for those who want to feel grounded in classic desert climbing nuances.
Drumstick to What stands as a compact test of technique and mental focus, where each clip leads to a move that pushes subtle limits. It’s a slice of the High Desert’s climbing character—practical, a bit gritty, and just open enough to offer a glimpse of the expansive wild beyond the cliff’s edge.
Bolt spacing widens near the top, so falling here requires confidence and careful clipping. Ensure your quickdraws are long enough to reduce rope drag over the arched feature. The landing zone is rocky but manageable; maintain helmet use and attention on the approach and descent paths.
Approach on well-marked trails; allow 15 minutes from the parking lot.
Wear precise climbing shoes to handle technical foot placements on the initial moves.
Early morning or late afternoon climbs avoid the harsh midday sun on this south-facing face.
Carry water—the desert air is dry and hydration is key even on brief climbs.
The route is fully bolted, featuring well-spaced bolts with a bolted anchor. A light rack of quickdraws will cover all protection needs. No traditional gear placements are required.
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