"Double Trouble tests trad climbers with a striking crack system and challenging roof moves on Turkey Rocks. Offering a mix of widening cracks and cryptic sequences, it's a fulfilling line that blends technical demands with accessible proximity to Denver."
Double Trouble presents a compelling challenge for trad climbers ready to navigate a rugged, demanding line on Turkey Rocks, just south of Denver in Colorado’s South Platte area. The route begins with a commanding finger crack that opens into progressively wider terrain, teasing climbers with a mix of technical hand jams and body placements. From the ground, the climb’s features may seem straightforward, but once engaged, the true complexities emerge—especially as you approach the first roof. This section demands careful movement and precise footwork at 5.9, a crux that tests both technique and endurance.
Surmounting the first roof opens into a deep and shadowy slot, a natural chasm that feels alive, pushing the climber onward and upward. The rock here is variable, sometimes solid but often challenging, with occasional patches of looser stone that keep the ascent honest. Beyond this, a second roof looms—its mysterious moves poorly hinted at from the base. Creativity and commitment are necessary to unlock this final technical barrier, which serves as a gratifying climax to the climb before reaching the best belay station slightly above.
Protection on Double Trouble demands a full rack, with an emphasis on larger cams—up to 5 inches—to handle the widening crack sections. Many climbers bring a couple of #4 and #5 Camalots, using leapfrogging techniques to maintain solid protection through tricky runouts. The final belay spot accommodates generous cam placements, often requiring hand-sized pieces for secure anchors. By positioning the belay just beyond the last roof and extending the clove hitch about five to six feet, climbers can avoid potential rope drag or snagging, a critical consideration here.
Turkey Rocks sits in a rugged stretch of South Platte land, offering a raw, exposed climbing experience not far from urban Denver but worlds away in atmosphere. The rock’s warmth under the sun offers excellent friction, though the area’s variable quality means climbers should approach with awareness and prepared gear. The cluster of routes here rewards careful route-reading as many lines involve complex crack systems demanding patience and thoughtful protection.
Approaching Double Trouble means a relatively short walk through mixed forest and granite boulders, with ample GPS coordinates guiding climbers to the base. This proximity to city life makes it a perfect option for afternoon climbs where time is limited, though the route’s technical moves still provide a full day's worth of engagement. Seasonally, late spring through early fall is ideal, as the south-facing aspect ensures good sun exposure but can make midday starts warm.
For those ready to step into Double Trouble, practical preparation includes sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability, a rack stocked for crack protection up to 5-inch cams, and a helmet to handle any unexpected rock fall. The crux sections deserve mental focus and controlled breathing; rushing here invites slips. The rock quality calls for mindfulness when placing gear, as some holds and placements might feel suspect at first touch.
Descending from the climb is straightforward—a short walk-off leads you back to the trailhead. Avoid lingering near fragile ledges and test footing carefully on the descent to minimize risks. Double Trouble is not just a climb but a measured journey through changing rock textures and climbing styles, offering an experience that strikes a balance between challenging moves and a rewarding summit stance.
Some sections feature loose or less stable rock, particularly near the roofs. Carefully test all holds and protection placements, wear a helmet, and maintain clear communication with your belayer to avoid rope drag or gear snagging in tight moves.
Place your belay anchor just beyond the last roof to avoid rope drag.
Extend the clove hitch about 5-6 feet on the final roof's protection for smoother rope management.
Be prepared for variable rock quality—test placements before committing.
Start climbs mid-morning to enjoy sun on the face but avoid the hottest afternoon hours.
Standard trad rack up to 5-inch cams recommended. Bring multiple large cams such as #4 and #5 Camalots for wider sections and use leapfrogging techniques to maintain solid protection. Hand-sized pieces are necessary for the belay anchor just past the final roof.
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