"Double Flipper blends steady crack climbing with technical slab moves along the Owens River Gorge, offering a concise yet rewarding challenge with solid bolting and a scenic anchor. Ideal for those looking to sharpen slab skills in a beautiful Eastern Sierra setting."
Perched above the crisp currents of the Owens River, Double Flipper offers an unpretentious slab and crack climb that invites both newcomers and savvy sport climbers to test their skill against California’s Sierra Eastside rock. The route begins with a face climb that steadily warms you up, fingers finding edges and texture as the rock shifts from solid face to crack around the midpoint. Once you reach the fifth bolt, a reassuring ledge provides a moment to catch your breath and readjust your strategy. From here, the climb veers left onto a slab that challenges balance and footwork, demanding focus as you inch upward with precision. The final moves lead you to a reliable two-bolt anchor set against sweeping views of the Upper Gorge, a reminder of the rugged wilderness that surrounds this climbing enclave.
This single-pitch, 80-foot climb’s character is defined by its straightforward protection via seven well-spaced bolts, creating a secure environment to explore slab technique and crack climbing without unnecessary risk. The rocky wall’s granite texture pushes you to trust your smearing and edging skills, while the crack sections reward judicious gear placements and steady hands. Climbers can expect the typical Owens River Gorge ambiance: the sound of wind threading through rock shelves, the distant rush of the river daring you onward, and the morning sun casting sharp contrasts across the vertical face.
Approach is accessible, cutting through a short path from the main trail that skirts the river's edge. Footwear with sticky rubber will serve well on the slab sections, while maintaining chalk for the crack ensures a confident grip. Timing your climb to avoid the strong afternoon sun is wise, as the east-facing wall absorbs heat and can challenge grip endurance during peak hours. Local climbers recommend early to mid-morning ascents, when the rock holds a cooler temperature and the gorge is alive with morning light.
Double Flipper is an excellent gateway to the Owens River Gorge’s sport climbing offerings. It provides a balanced taste of what this area delivers: straightforward but not simple, scenic without the crowds, and durable rock that demands respect yet rewards commitment. For climbers planning their trip, packing hydration gear and preparing for changeable mountain weather conditions will enhance the experience. The route’s moderate rating marks it as a solid progression climb, welcoming those keen to sharpen slab movement skills under reliable protection.
While bolts are well placed, the slab section offers limited opportunities for falling without risk of hitting ledges below. Climbers should maintain cautious clipping discipline and control their falls. Also, watch for loose rock near the crack transition, especially after wet weather.
Start your climb in the morning to avoid the heat on the east-facing slabs.
Bring at least two quickdraws and double-check bolt integrity before clipping.
Wear shoes with good edging ability—slab sections require confident footwork.
Hydrate before approaching—the arid environment dries you out quickly.
The route is protected by 7 bolts, spaced to offer secure clipping zones. A pair of quickdraws is recommended, and sticky rubber shoes will aid on the slab sections. Chalk is helpful for the crack portion, but no additional traditional gear is necessary.
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