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Double Exposure Trad Climb at Skaha's East Portal

Penticton, British Columbia Canada
finger crack
overhang crux
moderate trad
single pitch
rope drag
East Portal
Length: 98 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Double Exposure
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Double Exposure stands as Skaha's signature moderate trad climb at the East Portal, delivering a 30-meter finger crack line with a compelling overhang crux. With straightforward access and a compelling balance of technicality and flow, this route rewards focused rope management and precise placements."

Double Exposure Trad Climb at Skaha's East Portal

In the heart of British Columbia’s Skaha region, the East Portal stands as a beacon for climbers seeking moderate trad routes with a punch of character. Double Exposure is the undeniable favorite here, a single-pitch climb that balances technical finesse and straightforward adventure within a compact 30 meters of rock. This route invites you into a world of sharp edges and deliberate moves, where every finger jam and careful placement matters. Beginning in a left-facing corner that hugs slender finger-sized cracks, it demands thoughtful footwork and steady hands before challenging you with the crux—a move pulling leftward beneath an overhang that tests your core and composure. After surmounting this, the route settles back into another inviting corner, carrying you confidently to the anchors above.

The rock at Skaha’s East Portal has a gritty, tactile quality, textured enough to offer solid holds without inconspicuous features, asking climbers to engage fully with the line. Around you, the steady hum of the nearby Okanagan sets a calm backdrop, while the open faces catch warm afternoon sun—ideal for a solid finish to a day of climbing. The area’s relative accessibility means you won’t spend hours approaching; instead, you arrive ready to focus on the climb itself.

Protection on Double Exposure leans heavily on finger-sized gear, with a few placements requiring slightly larger cams in the BD1 to BD2 range. Bringing ample slings or draws is crucial, as rope drag can sneak in on the route’s subtle offsets and corners. The grade sits comfortably at 5.9, straddling the line between approachable and demanding, with its crux move lending a moment of concentrated effort that rewards climbers with an accomplished feeling at the top.

In terms of logistics, an easy approach from the East Portal trailhead means you’ll spend roughly 10 minutes carrying gear on a well-marked path. The climb’s mid-length pitch is perfect for a warm afternoon session or as a stepping stone to more challenging lines nearby. Climbers benefit from midday to afternoon sunlight here, as the wall faces southeast, warming the rock and drying quickly after any early morning moisture.

Safety here involves taking note of the rock’s occasional loose flakes near the base and running belays. Pay close attention to your placements during the crux where protection might be less abundant, and avoid over-relying on marginal gear.

Double Exposure represents one of Skaha’s best moderate traditional climbs, offering an accessible yet engaging challenge that clearly appeals to both returning locals and first-time visitors. It’s an essential stop for trad climbers who appreciate technical crack work paired with safe, straightforward access. Whether you’re dialing into your finger jams or tuning your rope management skills, this climb serves both as an inviting test and a satisfying alpine experience within the broader British Columbian climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Loose flakes near the climb’s base call for cautious foot placement during your approach and belay setup. The crux section can feel runout if protection isn’t carefully chosen; ensure placements are solid before committing to moves.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length98 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the well-marked East Portal trailhead for a quick 10-minute hike.

Bring plenty of finger-sized cams and a handful of BD1 and BD2 sizes for tricky placements.

The wall faces southeast—plan to climb mid-morning to afternoon for optimal warmth and dry conditions.

Check loose rock near the base before setting up your belay and tread carefully on ledges.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Double Exposure offers a solid moderate challenge with a crisp crux move under the overhang pushing the physical demand just enough to feel earned. While approachable for climbers comfortable in finger cracks and traditional gear placements, this route’s grade holds firm—with a slight nudge from the technical sequence mid-climb that separates a solid send from a careful rest.

Gear Requirements

Finger-sized protection dominates the gear rack here, with placements mostly accommodating BD1 and BD2 cams. Long slings or draws are highly recommended to reduce rope drag through the corners and overhang transitions.

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Tags

finger crack
overhang crux
moderate trad
single pitch
rope drag
East Portal