"Double Dihedral presents a compelling alpine trad climb on Matterhorn Peak’s North Arete—blending snow gully approaches with sustained crack climbing. Ideal for those versed in mixed terrain who crave a route that balances technical climbing with rugged alpine character."
Rising from the rugged contours of the Sawtooth Ridge, the Double Dihedral on Matterhorn Peak invites climbers into an alpine experience where snow and rock converge with deliberate challenge. Begin your ascent on the right flank of North Arete, navigating a narrow snow gully just shy of the West Couloir. The chill of the snow guides you into a spacious left-facing dihedral that feels alive, its icy grip daring you onward. This groove demands focus—not only on the slick texture beneath your fingertips but the shifting light and shadow that play across its surfaces.
As you climb, the route shifts left to a ledge that offers momentary reprieve and a breath of open air before the second dihedral comes into view. A wide crack runs here, a welcome line to thread your protection. This section earns its respect as the crux—requiring steady feet and precise gear placements. While some choose to approach this dihedral from the north side of the Arete, moving through the rock’s natural arms provides the clearest path upward.
Above, a headwall demands a sharper edge of technique and judgement. A notable block just beneath beckons for a sling anchor, anchoring your safety before committing to the final moves. The climb past it varies in feeling—from an easy 5.6 to a slightly more assertive 5.7—and protection can be sparse until you rise beyond the initial moves. Here, the rock encourages smooth movement and calm assessment.
The final stretch leads onto a ridge of 3rd to 4th class terrain offering direct passage to Matterhorn’s summit, where views spread across High Sierra’s austere peaks. Descending the East Couloir wraps the outing with a brisk, focused scramble, demanding care but rewarding climbers with the mountain’s quiet, elemental presence.
Gear-wise, this alpine route leans on traditional protection: a solid set of cams ranging from small to #2 feels essential, with extra large cams (#4-6) optional for those who want extra security. Slinging natural features like chock stones supplements your anchors, blending technical skill with intuitive gear placements. Nuts add versatility on key sections, rounding out a gently committing experience that suits climbers ready for easy snow mixed with rock climbing rated around 5.8 PG13.
Planning for this route means embracing early starts to avoid afternoon sun and potential snow softening on the route. Quality boots equipped for snow approaches and lightweight rock shoes for the pitches create a dynamic combination. Hydration and layers matter here; temperatures can swing sharply with elevation and exposure.
Double Dihedral demands a balance—respect for alpine environments and a willingness to engage both snow climbing and delicate crack routes. It’s not a race but a measured step into the mountain’s nuanced personality. Adventurers who take this climb will find a route that tests their versatility and rewards them with an authentic taste of High Sierra’s alpine rigor.
Watch for loose rock around the headwall and stick carefully to protection opportunities. The narrow snow gully on the approach can be slippery and requires caution, especially during thaw cycles. The East Couloir descent demands care—unsteady snow or ice increases fall hazard, so assess conditions carefully before committing.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and softening snow conditions on the approach and climb.
Wear alpine boots that transition well for snow travel and light rock climbing for the pitches.
Bring double-length runners to sling the block beneath the headwall safely and efficiently.
Be prepared for a careful downclimb or scramble on the East Couloir; check seasonal snow stability.
Required gear includes a full set of cams from small sizes up to #2, with optional larger pieces (#4-6) for added security on the second dihedral. Several slingable chock stones can anchor protection with double runners and a set of nuts rounds out the rack for adaptability on the mixed rock and snow terrain.
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