"Donut Necromancer cuts a gritty, alpine line on Mount Julian’s imposing Donut Buttress. With four pitches of slab, corners, and exposed face climbing, this route tests technical skill amid expansive tundra and striking rock features."
Donut Necromancer stands as a bold alpine challenge tucked into the rugged terrain of Mount Julian within Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. This climb offers a taste of classic alpine trad with a grit that separates committed adventurers from the crowd, sprawling 600 feet across four pitches that blend loosening slabs, corner cracks, and exposed face climbing. Starting from Doughnut Lake, the approach demands alertness: a steady push across tundra and talus slopes leads you to the mostly unlabeled descent gully that carves a rough boundary on the left side of Donut Buttress. Moving southeast, the terrain shifts from gravel fields to grassy ledges, eventually revealing the climb’s starting line.
Pitch one sits on the left flank of these ledges, presenting a medium-sized left-facing corner that tests your finger strength and confidence in the 5.8 range. This section feels gritty and compact, and if you prefer, you can skirt right onto easier slabs rated around 5.6, working your way to a small grassy belay tucked safely near a #4 Camalot placement. Beyond, pitch two moves higher and left, navigating slick slabs and passing a prominent hanging dihedral that tempts with a more technical line—though one best reserved for those ready to face demanding nail-ups.
The third pitch shifts tone, easing to a 5.6 move across excellent slab climbing that angles right following a wall adorned in vivid yellow lichen. Here, the large left-facing dihedral offers a tantalizing but much harder option, arguably pushing into 5.11 territory and demanding bold moves, but the standard route eases climbers to a secure stance on a sloping belay shelf to prepare for the final ascent.
Pitch four follows a straightforward path leftward along the wall, rounding corners with confident face climbing avoiding roof bands, and finishing on a belay shelf before descending exposed 4th-class terrain. This final approach to flatter ground is a perfect moment to absorb the alpine surroundings—the high tundra slopes and distant ridgelines provide context for your effort.
Descent options require careful planning. From the top, head toward Terra Tomah and descend the ridge to the true saddle, where a steep gully plunges back to Doughnut Lake. This descent includes 3rd to 4th-class scrambling with loose rock and two notable bottlenecks: a 5.2 downclimb and a rappel spot barely reachable in a single 60m rope drop. Alternatively, a longer, less technical traverse toward Terra Tomah allows a retreat via a tundra ramp that drops more gently at 2nd-3rd class difficulty. This climb isn’t a casual stroll but delivers a raw alpine experience that rewards technical skill, route-finding, and patience.
Gear-wise, bring a single rack of cams up to 3 inches, a robust set of nuts, and a #4 Camalot for solid placements. Protection options fit traditional alpine needs, but take care to test placements carefully, especially where rock quality softens. Weather can evolve rapidly here, so early starts and attention to afternoon conditions are essential to avoid sudden storms.
Donut Necromancer blends the thrill of exploration with solid trad climbing in one of Colorado's iconic high country settings. It challenges the climber who’s ready to engage directly with the mountain’s changing moods and variable rock. For those seeking a blend of exposure, technical edge, and alpine aura, this route is a compelling invitation.
The descent gully includes loose rock and two key bottlenecks: a 5.2 downclimb and a rappelling section that demands precise rope management. Assess conditions carefully before attempting and be prepared for unstable terrain throughout the descent. Early-season ice and afternoon weather can worsen hazards.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the Colorado alpine.
Test all placements carefully; loose and crumbly rock can appear near ledges.
Bring sturdy footwear suitable for both slab scrambling and talus approach.
Use a 60m rope to comfortably single-pitch rappel the descent bottleneck.
A single rack of cams to 3 inches, a set of nuts, and a #4 Camalot cover the protection needs. Some tricky placements require attention, especially at belay stations located on grassy ledges and slab areas.
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