5.9, Trad
Joshua Tree
California ,United States
"Set against the stark granite west face of Sphinx Rock, Don't Touch That Flake is a tight, single-pitch trad climb that demands precision and composure. With easy access right off the trail, it’s a perfect quick challenge in the heart of Joshua Tree."
Don't Touch That Flake offers a straightforward yet characterful single-pitch climb on the west face of Sphinx Rock, right within Joshua Tree National Park. The route stands out for its clean, slabby terrain that demands precise footwork and a steady hand, all set against the stark, sunlit backdrop that Joshua Tree is famous for. Positioned just off the trail and next to Cherry Blossom, this climb challenges you to navigate a prominent flake system that looks tempting but must be left untouched—testing both your technical skill and your restraint.
At roughly 40 feet of vertical movement, the route is approachable for climbers comfortable with 5.9 trad terrain. The climb is defined by a smooth slab, requiring careful balance and deliberate placements. Protection consists of a couple of bolts and traditional gear placements up to 3 inches for anchor building, but the real test lies in maintaining composure while managing the delicate flake feature that climbs onlookers often want to grab but shouldn’t.
The setting is quintessential Joshua Tree, where exposed granite basks under high desert sun, offering panoramic views of the rugged landscape. Early morning climbs are recommended to avoid the relentless midday heat and to take advantage of the cooler shade cast along the wall’s west-facing aspect.
Because the route is right next to a common trail, access is quick and straightforward, making it an ideal warm-up or a quick stop to enjoy a technical slab climb without a major approach. The walk-off descent is easy, allowing you to quickly move on to other climbs or soak in the desert surroundings.
Gear-wise, climbers should bring a standard rack geared toward medium-sized protection and bring a handful of quickdraws for the bolts. Attention to foot placement and friction is crucial here, especially given the route’s smooth face. As always in desert environments, hydration and sun protection are critical. Preparing for temperature swings typical of Joshua Tree ensures a comfortable and successful outing.
While the route’s sparse bolting and fragile flake can frustrate some, it’s exactly this combination that teaches patience and finesse. Experienced climbers will appreciate the subtle challenge of reading the rock and trusting friction in tight spots. Beginners aiming near the upper limit of 5.9 will find valuable lessons in balance and gear placement.
This climb fits well into a day of diverse routes in the Comic Book Area, offering a contrasting style to surrounding cracks and more featured climbs. The quick access and manageable length make it a practical choice for those seeking quality moves without a significant time investment. Whether you’re scaling solo or as part of a group eager to explore Joshua Tree’s rich trad offerings, Don't Touch That Flake stakes its claim as a compact, focused test of skill in a uniquely vibrant desert landscape.
The prominent flake is unstable and cannot be relied on for protection or holds, posing a risk if weighted accidentally. Bolts are minimal and spaced, demanding sound gear placement elsewhere. Watch footing carefully to avoid slips on the smooth granite.
Start early in the morning to avoid the intense desert heat on the west-facing wall.
Avoid touching the flake; it’s fragile and climbing on it compromises safety and route integrity.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber—footwork is key on the smooth slab sections.
Hydrate thoroughly and bring sun protection for the approach and climb.
Bring a standard trad rack up to 3-inch cams for anchor building, plus quickdraws for the two fixed bolts. Protection opportunities are limited; precise placements and conservative clipping are essential.
Upload your photos of Don't Touch That Flake and earn up to 3000 $PAD tokens.