HomeClimbingDon't Rain On My Parade

Don't Rain On My Parade: A Sharp Trad Climb at Vallecito Crags

Durango, Colorado United States
face climbing
technical moves
single pitch
trad gear
crux
secure stances
Durango climbing
granite
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Don't Rain On My Parade
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A focused 45-foot trad climb on sharp, vertical rock at Vallecito Crags, Don't Rain On My Parade challenges climbers with a technical crux early in the pitch. With key gear placements and solid stances, it offers a compact yet engaging test of skill just outside Durango."

Don't Rain On My Parade: A Sharp Trad Climb at Vallecito Crags

Don't Rain On My Parade is a compelling single-pitch trad climb located at Vertical Wall in the Vallecito Crags near Durango, Colorado. This route offers a concentrated burst of engaging face climbing across 45 feet of vertical rock. From the moment you toe into the first holds, the route demands precision and commitment, with the crux zone occupying the opening 20 to 25 feet. Here, the stone challenges your technique with edgy moves that reward balanced footwork and careful sequencing. The rock’s texture feels alive under your fingertips, gripping enough to build confidence yet testing your finesse.

Protection is well-placed but demands attention—key placements along the crux offer reassurance, though the gear stances afterwards open up, giving climbers needed breathing room before reaching the top. The line’s moderate 5.9 rating carries a bit of weight due to the technical demands and the necessity for smart gear selection. Climbers will want to have a rack with BD C3 cams up to #0.75 and bring along a single #3 cam for the larger placements. Currently, the route lacks a bolted anchor, but plans are underway to install one soon, so be prepared to set your own top protection or use a traditional belay setup.

Vallecito Crags sits quietly outside Durango, offering a steep, solid rock face that absorbs the sun well and presents clear climbing days even in shoulder seasons. The approach is straightforward, dropping onto solid granite that feels firm beneath boots and chalk alike. Surrounding vegetation adds a soft contrast to the sharp lines of the climb, where dry needles crunch underfoot and pine-scented breezes brush past, lending a grounded feeling to the upward push.

This climb is an excellent test for trad climbers looking to sharpen technical skills on compact, vertical terrain without lengthy approach hikes. Reaching the top rewards with open views over the Durango area, a subtle reminder of how climbing often pairs effort with expansive perspective.

Plan your ascent during stable weather, as wet conditions would significantly complicate the slick face climbing. Wear shoes that provide sticky rubber for toe precision and bring a full rack focused on small to medium cams. Hydrate well before setting off and be mindful of limited fixed protection at the anchors. With these considerations, Don't Rain On My Parade offers a memorable single-pitch experience that balances challenge and achievement gracefully.

Climber Safety

The route currently lacks a bolted top anchor, requiring climbers to rely on traditional gear for belay set-up. Be sure your anchor build is solid and double-check placements during the climb, especially in the crux section where falls could be longer.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Approach on firm, rocky trails—wear sturdy shoes for grip and ankle support.

Tackle the climb on dry days; slick conditions heavily increase difficulty.

Bring extra webbing or slings to build a safe anchor until the bolted anchor is installed.

Start early in the day for cooler rock temperature and better grip.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels appropriately challenging here, with the crux packed into the opening stretch demanding clean movement and precise protection. It sits at the tougher end of moderate climbs locally due to the technical nuances and sustained focus required early on—not a cruiser but wholly rewarding for those prepared.

Gear Requirements

Bring a set of BD C3 cams up to size #0.75 and one #3 cam. Protection placements are critical in the first half, with good gear stances to rest on after the crux. No fixed bolts for top anchor yet, so bring gear to build a secure belay.

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Tags

face climbing
technical moves
single pitch
trad gear
crux
secure stances
Durango climbing
granite