"Don't Feed the Beast challenges climbers with a gritty 100-foot sandstone trad pitch in Colorado National Monument. From rubble-filled handcracks to runout face moves, this route offers a raw adventure for those seeking commitment and desert exposure."
Rising from the rugged backcountry of Colorado National Monument, the route known as 'Don't Feed the Beast' offers a raw trad climbing experience that demands both nerve and finesse. This single-pitch climb sits amid the imposing towers in Devil's Kitchen, a stark landscape marked by sheer sandstone walls and rocky outcrops that challenge the climber from start to finish. The approach begins with a scramble away from the roadside traffic, leading you through debris-laden terrain to the base of the tower. This initial handcrack section, about 25 feet long and filled with blocks and rubbly rock, sets the tone—a gritty, tactile introduction to the climb’s character.
At the saddle between the southernmost towers, climbers have the option to extend their adventure by tagging the adjacent outside tower. This detour is an unprotected but straightforward scramble that rewards with heightened exposure and panoramic views back over the monument’s rugged formations. Returning to the notch, the real test begins: a committing sequence of face moves demanding precise footwork and steady nerves. This stretch is decidedly runout, with no protection available and a sharp mental edge required to proceed through the airy traverse. It’s brief but decisive.
Protection on this route calls for a typical desert rack—think a range of cams and nuts suited for sandstone cracks and edges—and a single 70-meter rope is sufficient to handle the ascent and descent. The anchor at the top is sketchy and should be approached with caution; while rappel descent is doable, climbers must remain vigilant and double-check setups before committing.
The surrounding Colorado National Monument area amplifies the experience with its stark, dry beauty. The ochre rock formations absorb the sunlight, warming the surfaces and creating strong shadows that accentuate every crevice and ledge. The air carries a hint of juniper and desert sage, while occasional wind gusts push a reminder of the environment’s rawness against your skin. Timing this climb for the cooler morning or late afternoon hours makes for a more comfortable push, avoiding the fierce midday sun that beats down on the exposed walls.
In all, 'Don't Feed the Beast' presents an adventure that suits climbers ready to embrace a mix of low-key approach, mental grit, and delicate sandstone movement on classic Colorado rock. It’s not for the faint of heart but rewards those who come prepared with memorable exposure, varied terrain, and a strong sense of place in an iconic desert climbing area.
The anchor at the top is known to be sketchy—climbers should prepare for a less-than-ideal rappel setup and consider alternatives if unsure. Loose rock and rubble at the base require careful foot placement, especially on the approach scramble.
Start early or late to avoid intense midday sun on exposed sandstone.
Bring plenty of hydration—the desert heat can be draining even in cooler months.
Approach via the scramble behind the road, watching for loose rubble underfoot.
Double-check anchor setup before descending—known to be precarious and minimal.
Carry a standard desert rack to handle handcracks and face protection; a single 70-meter rope is enough for both ascent and rappel descent. Expect some sketchy anchor conditions at the top, so vigilance is essential.
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