"Dodging Deanna offers a sustained alpine trad climb on North Howser Tower with almost 3,000 feet of sharp crack climbing and mental cruxes. This demanding 18-pitch route challenges climbers to manage technical sequences and approach with care, delivering an immersive Bugaboos experience."
Dodging Deanna stands as an enduring test of skill and perseverance in the heart of the Bugaboos. This 18-pitch route stretches nearly 2800 feet across North Howser Tower’s rugged face, offering climbers a continuous challenge that rewards meticulous planning and steady nerves. Starting from the base, the approach begins through demanding alpine terrain, requiring a solid mix of hiking and scrambling before the rock truly commands your full attention.
The climb opens with options: the Shooting Gallery (5.11a) or the Seventh Rifle (5.10a). The Seventh Rifle tends to dry out later into the season, making it a practical choice for shoulder months when wet conditions prevail. Once committed to the main line, climbers encounter the upper headwall's splitter crack, a pitch that demands precise technique and careful footwork. The mid-prow features flake pitches that introduce some of the most complicated sequences—mental cruxes that separate the confident from the cautious.
Protection is traditional and straightforward but requires a full rack plus a #5 cam for the wider sections. No fixed gear exists here, so placing solid protection is essential. Given the route’s length and exposure, a 70-meter rope is advisable to manage longer pitches efficiently and allow for comfortable belays.
Descending demands its own form of vigilance. In case of retreat, hikers must navigate down a tricky 4th class route skiers-left of the climb, aiming for East Creek Bivy. This two-hour trek can become precarious when slick from rain or snowmelt, so timing your descent when the rock is dry is critical. The descent demands the same respect as the ascent—losing focus on switchbacks or footing invites an unwanted slip.
Surrounded by dramatic alpine scenery, the Bugaboos’ climate challenges even experienced climbers. The sun shifts quickly behind the peaks in late afternoon, so starting early maximizes light and warmth. Layers and hydration are crucial; the cool air can mask dehydration once the climbing gets intense. Footwear should balance precision for crack climbing and comfort over long approach terrain.
Every pitch whispers the mountain’s history of gritty ascents and rugged beauty. Dodging Deanna is not for the casual climber—it’s a demanding alpine climb that delivers a mix of technical crack climbing, mental endurance, and connection to a wild landscape that pushes adventurers to their limits. Preparation and respect for the terrain unlock the experience, making every hand jam and foothold a step deeper into the spirit of the Bugaboos.
No fixed protection means careful gear placement is critical—misplaced cams on flakes or wide sections pose serious risk. Approach and descent routes can be slippery, especially when wet, so plan your timing to avoid hazardous footing.
Choose the Seventh Rifle (5.10a) for an earlier dry window than Shooting Gallery (5.11a).
Start climbs early to take advantage of sunlight before afternoon shade cools the rock.
Carry extra water and hydrate well to combat alpine dryness during the long ascent.
If retreating, descend skiers-left via the 4th class route to East Creek Bivy, avoiding wet or slick conditions.
A standard trad rack with a crucial #5 cam is necessary to handle wide cracks. No bolts or pitons protect this route, so climbers must rely solely on careful gear placements, and a 70-meter rope is advised to comfortably link longer pitches.
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