"Direct Second Buttress stands out as a largely overlooked gem on Hallett Peak—an alpine trad climb that offers technical challenges wrapped in quiet solitude. With eight pitches of varied terrain and careful protection, this route appeals to climbers ready to leave the crowds behind and test their skills on exposed granite."
Direct Second Buttress offers an alluring escape from the busier routes in Rocky Mountain National Park, hidden in plain sight along the rugged face of Hallett Peak. This eight-pitch trad climb combines alpine grit with a manageable 5.9 rating, inviting those willing to venture beyond the beaten path into a climb that challenges both your route-finding skills and climbing technique. The approach itself starts with a steady hike past popular climbs like Culp-Bossier and Jackson-Johnson, but soon you will find yourself alone, contending with the loose rock and exposed granite that define this less-traveled line.
From the base, the climb unfolds in a landscape defined by towering corners, steep slabs, and intermittent sections of solid, juggy crack systems. Expect the initial pitch to test your nerves with a mix of 5.8 corner climbing, requiring careful movement and attention to loose holds. Following this, the crux pitch appears, deceptively marked by fixed slings high above a shallow, right-facing corner. This is a technical pitch that rewards precise footwork and controlled body positioning as you navigate a blank rock face dotted with minimal handholds. The difficulty here runs slightly softer than the guidebook suggests, leaning closer toward 5.9 than the stated 5.10a, but the protection remains close to your feet, demanding deliberate placements and patience.
Beyond the crux, the route eases into a series of exposed, juggy pitches averaging around 5.7 and 5.8 that lead you upward along a mix of striking granite corners and slabby faces. The rock quality varies; some areas feel solid and reassuring, while others require caution due to looseness, especially on traverse sections. One standout pitch is a right-facing corner with a roof that challenges you through a juggy weakness, granting generous holds and spectacular exposure. As you climb higher, the vast expanse of the surrounding alpine meadows and distant peaks opens up around you, making every vertical meter a reward.
Protection throughout the climb demands a specialized rack focusing on smaller cams—the largest being around a #3.5 Friend. While most pro placements sit comfortably at feet level, anchors on this route are modest. Notably, the belay atop pitch two, as described in common guidebooks, is far from reliable; climbers should plan ahead for extended pitches or find better stances on sweeping ledges. The final pitch challenges you with a loose but straightforward notch featuring 5.6 climbing to reach the summit ridge, where boulder belays await and the descent route becomes clear.
The descent is typically made by heading northward up the summit ridge to a gully, providing a straightforward walk-off, but attention to footing is critical on loose terrain after the technical challenge. Plan your climb for late summer to early fall, when dry conditions prevail and afternoon storms are less frequent. Early starts are also wise to avoid climbing in the heat and to ensure good light on the more delicate crux sections.
In essence, Direct Second Buttress is a rewarding journey into an overlooked corner of RMNP’s alpine climbing scene. It balances exposure, technical climbing, and the reminder that quiet places still exist, waiting for attentive adventurers. Proper gear selection, a keen eye for route-finding, and steady nerves are key preparation points to turn this understated trad line into a memorable alpine day on the rock.
Loose rock pervades multiple pitches and the approach, so move carefully and wear a helmet at all times. Protection at the crux comes low, requiring focus on placements and the belay atop pitch 2 is inadequate — consider extending or using alternative stances to reduce risk. Be vigilant with route-finding, as the start can be tricky and missteps lead into dangerous terrain.
Approach via the familiar trail past Culp-Bossier and Jackson-Johnson to the large right-facing corner; start in the smaller third corner to the right of this feature.
Expect loose rock and be cautious on traverse sections, especially on pitch 5 where some loose holds appear near the roof.
Carry a 60-meter rope for longer pitches and to reach better belays above the crux.
Start early in the day for dry conditions and avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in late summer.
Bring a traditional rack focused on smaller cams with a largest piece around a #3.5 Friend. Protection is solid but often requires feet-level placements. Fixed slings mark the crux pitch but belays vary in quality, with the P2 belay being notably insufficient, recommending continuation to better ledges with a 60m rope.
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