"Dihedral offers a straightforward, evocative trad climb in Eldorado Canyon’s Lower Peanuts sector, blending accessible crack climbing with a taste of subtle exposure. Ideal for climbers refining their crack techniques, it also serves as a reliable warm-up or standalone ascent in a quietly rugged setting."
Dihedral is a classic single-pitch trad climb tucked into the Lower Peanuts section of Eldorado Canyon State Park, a gem on Colorado’s Boulder landscape. The route begins with Your Basic Lieback, setting a steady, inviting tone perfect for climbers seeking a moderate challenge with solid exposure. From the outset, the rock takes hold in a familiar lieback sequence that leads toward a belay stance, where you gain a moment to catch your breath and appreciate the rugged walls surrounding you.
The climb pushes on through a short stretch of weaker rock, demanding careful footwork and focused movements before reaching the route’s signature feature: an obvious dihedral that encourages creative crack climbing and balance. At this point, the rock demands attention as you negotiate a positive flake to the left—threading this variation feels like reading the natural rhythm of Eldo granite. Climbers who push straight up into the steep finger crack will encounter moves closer to 5.9 difficulty, providing a slightly stiffer challenge, though the alternative flake variation leans toward a softer 5.7, offering welcoming options based on personal taste or conditions.
Once atop the ramp, the climb eases and directs you up and right toward the anchor perched above Forbidden Planet, finishing on a high note with confident exposure and rewarding views over the canyon below. The anchors are solid, but descending demands precision and care. Two rappels are required: the first to a station set slightly left on a band of rotten rock, which can feel loose and demands smooth, controlled lowers, and the final rappel sends you all the way to the ground—use a 60-meter rope to ensure a safe, uninterrupted descent.
Eldorado Canyon’s distinct terrain blends sandstone’s sharp edges with granite’s steadfast grip, offering a climbing experience that speaks to both commitment and finesse. Dihedral’s combination of moderate technical demands, finger-to-hand-sized crimps, and approach accessibility make it a dependable warm-up or a rewarding standalone route for those who appreciate classic crack climbing with a straightforward approach. The route’s location in Lower Peanuts means it shares the quiet charm of this less-frequented zone, offering a satisfying sense of solitude punctuated only by the wind whispering through canyon walls and the occasional call of local wildlife.
Bringing a standard Eldo rack with cams sized from finger to hand is key to protecting the crux sections where typical placements shine. Pay particular attention near the rotten band on descent; rock here can be unstable and calls for attentive rappelling skills and a careful eye. Approach from Eldorado Canyon’s established trails, which offer a short, scenic walk with rock-strewn paths and panoramic views of the Front Range beyond. Early morning or late afternoon tend to serve best to avoid heat and crowd, as the wall faces east, receiving sun through much of the day but offering refreshing shade as shadows lengthen.
In all, Dihedral furnishes an accessible, enjoyable climb framed by Eldorado’s distinctive granite features, perfectly pitched for those stepping up from beginner climbs or seasoned adventurers seeking a classic route in a storied climbing area. Sharpen your crack techniques but keep your gear light, focus steady, and enjoy a climb that delivers steady challenge and a strong sense of place.
Be vigilant on the descent—the first rappel station sits above a loose band of rock that can shift underfoot. Ensure solid rappelling technique and avoid loading the rope too heavily on fragile rock sections.
Use a 60-meter rope to complete the double rappel safely to the ground.
Approach via established Lower Peanuts trails; expect about 15-20 minutes of easy hiking.
Start early to avoid midday sun on the east-facing wall and enjoy cooler conditions.
Exercise caution on the descent; rotten rock near the first rappel station requires deliberate and controlled rappelling.
A standard Eldorado Canyon rack with cams ranging from finger to hand sizes is essential for protecting the delicate finger cracks and flake features on Dihedral.
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