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Devil's Delight: A Classic Trad Climb in COVID Castle

Grand Junction, Colorado USA
off-width
trad
short climb
wide crack
desert climbing
dry wall
Length: 20 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Devil's Delight
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A compact yet demanding trad climb along a prominent off-width crack above COVID Castle. Devil's Delight challenges with a single 20-foot 5.8 section, backed by solid protection and a sharp, accessible approach."

Devil's Delight: A Classic Trad Climb in COVID Castle

Devil's Delight invites climbers to step into a raw slice of Colorado’s rugged high desert just above COVID Castle in the McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area. This short trad route packs a surprising punch within its 20-foot vertical reach. The approach and descent follow mostly solid 3rd class terrain where the rock feels warm under hand and boot—textures that mark this place's ancient sandstone. Yet, the heart of the climb demands attention: a single 20-foot off-width crack rated 5.8 that challenges you to move powerfully but efficiently, threading your way upward with steady foot jams and shoulder locks. This stretch is not just a physical test; it’s a point where the canyon seems to tighten around you, the wind whispering through nearby canyon walls.

Protection relies on large cams in the #5 and #6 range, reflecting the crack’s width and the importance of solid gear placement in this exposed environment. The rock quality is generally sound, but the climb rewards a cautious, deliberate approach—easy to rush yet betraying the less experienced with tricky moves in the off-width’s rhythm. If you approach in late spring through early fall, you’ll find the wall largely dry and pleasantly shaded in the morning, with the warming sun arriving just as you reach the top shelf.

The descent tracks back down sloping ledges, with some short downclimbs and a few sections pointing toward this route's namesake devilish difficulty. While the distance is short, the approach from the base of Devil’s Canyon requires a careful footing over desert scrub and loose rocks, especially after recent dry spells. Aim to start early to avoid afternoon heat and lingering rattlesnake activity.

Devil’s Delight serves as an ideal introduction to off-width climbing for those experienced with crack technique but craving a concise, pure test. The route’s exposure and protection demand respect, but the payoff is a strong sense of accomplishment paired with sweeping views of McInnis Canyons’ arid landscape. Whether this is your first foray into large cracks or an enjoyable warm-up for longer routes, this climb’s straightforward length juxtaposed with its technical challenge makes it a memorable stop in the Grand Junction area climbing circuit.

Climber Safety

The 20-foot off-width can be strenuous, so avoid rushing upward to reduce fatigue. Loose rock is generally uncommon, but the approach and descent cross sections of exposed ledges where missteps could be serious. Always double-check gear placements and be mindful of temperature spikes that increase dehydration risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length20 feet

Local Tips

Start early morning to catch cooler temperatures and avoid afternoon heat.

Wear durable shoes with sticky rubber to handle the off-width crack jams.

Pack plenty of water—exposure and sun can quickly dehydrate you here.

Approach trail can be uneven and loose; sturdy footwear and attentive footing are recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, this route feels just about right in difficulty. The crux arises in the off-width moves, which demand efficient jamming and shoulder technique rather than pure strength. The grade is not soft—expect to work the whole width—and it sits comfortably among other mid-range off-widths in Colorado, making it a solid test for climbers expanding their crack repertoire.

Gear Requirements

Bring large cams, specifically #5 and #6, to protect the wide off-width section safely. Smaller gear won’t fit the crack, and fixed gear is minimal, making your pro placements key to a safe ascent.

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Tags

off-width
trad
short climb
wide crack
desert climbing
dry wall