"Dehydrated Lemon is a gritty and challenging 5.9 sport climb near Lemon Reservoir, Colorado. With loose rock and thoughtful gear placements, it’s a route for climbers who value bold movement and strategic protection."
Dehydrated Lemon offers a gritty sport climbing experience on the west flank of Lemon Reservoir near Durango, Colorado. Unlike polished granite faces, this route demands respect for both its character and terrain — the rock bears the marks of nature's wear, with loose sections and choss that keeps you on alert. Climbers move along an 85-foot path peppered with bolts, but don’t mistake the hardware for ease. The protection is solid but spaced to challenge your judgment and gear placement skills.
The ascent leads to a two-bolt anchor, recently upgraded with chains and quicklinks, improving safety although the original slings remain too flimsy for safe top-roping. Expect a short, sharp push through varied holds where gear placements for a range of cams (#0.4 to 2) and large stoppers fit — although the rock can be fragile, requiring careful selection and weight distribution. This route rewards those who appreciate an interesting movement sequence despite loose rock.
Set against the backdrop of the high desert and pine-studded slopes, the approach winds through terrain that alternates between brush and open rocky stretches. The cliff faces southwest, catching the afternoon sun, making spring and fall ideal climbing seasons when temperatures balance warmth with minimal risk of rockfall triggered by freeze-thaw cycles.
Access involves a moderate trek from the west side of Lemon Reservoir, where dirt roads transition into footpaths. The approach is straightforward but uneven; sturdy footwear and hydration are must-haves. Weather can shift quickly in this part of Colorado, so layers and early starts help avoid heat or afternoon winds.
Dehydrated Lemon isn’t a polished jewel, but it holds appeal for climbers seeking an authentic feel of Colorado’s less-traveled rock with a solid 5.9 rating. The challenge lies not just in the moves, but in reading the rock — learning to trust gear placements and move dynamically on rock that sometimes pushes back. For those prepared and attentive, it offers a short, bold route close to Durango’s outdoor attractions.
The rock includes sections of loose, crumbly stone that require deliberate climbing and gear assessment. Avoid top-roping from original slings as they are weak; rely on the upgraded anchor chains. Watch for rockfall during spring melt or after heavy rain.
Approach from the west side parking area and follow clear dirt roads to the base—expect a 15-minute walk over uneven footing.
Wear shoes with solid edging due to loose rock and crumbly holds in places.
Climb in spring or fall for the most comfortable temperatures and reduced risk of rockfall.
Bring a rack with small to medium cams and a selection of large stoppers to supplement bolted protection.
Bolts provide primary protection, while #0.4-2 cams and large stoppers can be placed in more fragile sections. Anchor has been upgraded with chains and quicklinks, improving belay safety but top-rope slings remain unreliable.
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