"Dead End Crack is a compact, technical trad route right of Road Rash Roof in Clear Creek Canyon. With well-spaced small gear placements and a clean crack line, it challenges your technique while offering a brief but rewarding experience. Be prepared for a brief but awkward upper section near the anchors."
Dead End Crack offers a focused, hands-on traditional climbing experience amid the rugged terrain of Clear Creek Canyon near Golden, Colorado. This single-pitch route stretches approximately 90 feet along a clean crack system positioned just right of the more demanding Road Rash Roof (rated 5.12a). It begins with straightforward, slabby moves on well-defined flakes that encourage smooth footwork and precise hand jams. As you progress upward, the crack tightens, demanding subtle body positioning, especially near the prominent upper flake just beneath the anchor bolts.
The anchors themselves mark an awkward ending—where the roof intersects the face, a concentrated patch of pigeon and bat droppings covers the ledge, forcing climbers to negotiate this less enjoyable final section swiftly. Despite this, the initial two-thirds of the climb provide enjoyable friction and varied crack climbing that’s perfect for developing technique on smaller protection placements.
Gear-wise, Dead End Crack caters primarily to smaller cams and nuts, thanks to the crack’s narrow profile. A standard trad rack filled with micro to small-sized gear will serve best, with placements that require careful evaluation to ensure security. The rock quality is generally solid with minimal loose flakes, but caution is advised near the top where debris may affect footing.
The approach to High Wire Crag is short and accessible from Clear Creek Canyon trailheads, a convenient plus for climbers with limited time or those looking to warm up before venturing onto harder routes nearby. The climb sits at 39.7378 latitude and -105.3196 longitude, tucked along a sun-dosed wall that brightens with morning light, cooling through afternoon shadows—ideal for spring and fall ascents.
While Dead End Crack may lack the flashier moves found on neighboring climbs, it’s a compact adventure that blends technical cracking with straightforward protection and a down-to-earth feel. Perfect for trad climbers wanting to sharpen fundamentals or acclimate to Clear Creek’s granite texture without committing to extended pitches, this route rewards focus and calm on the rock.
Before setting out, prepare to bring your smallest cams, plan for a quick clean at the top apron, and time your climb to avoid lingering on the upper ledge. Weather in this region calls for flexible scheduling; summer afternoons heat up quickly, while shoulder seasons offer crisp, clear skyscapes and stable conditions. The short approach and moderate grade make it a solid option when local conditions or schedules constrain bigger plans.
In sum, Dead End Crack captures a straightforward trad climb with enough character to keep your hands busy and feet engaged. It’s a perfect stepping stone for trad climbers looking to deepen their edge in Clear Creek’s approachable environment.
Watch for pigeon and bat droppings near the top anchors—this organic debris can impact foothold security and gear placements. Additionally, the upper crack narrows, requiring careful protection and precise moves to avoid slips in this confined space.
Bring a micro to small-sized cam set for secure placements throughout.
Approach from Clear Creek Canyon trailhead; the hike is short and straightforward.
Avoid lingering on the upper ledge due to pigeon and bat droppings.
Aim for morning climbs to catch cool temps and avoid afternoon heat.
A standard rack emphasizing smaller cams works best due to narrow crack widths. Placement is generally solid but requires attention in upper sections, where debris may affect safety.
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