"Dark Side of the Moon offers a demanding offwidth adventure on Turkey Rocks with a tight squeeze crack evolving into a large chimney. This single-pitch trad climb tests your gear placement skills and physical endurance on Colorado’s rugged South Platte cliffs."
Dark Side of the Moon offers a gritty, hands-on encounter with offwidth climbing on the South Platte’s rugged Turkey Rocks area. This single-pitch trad route stands out for its demanding squeeze crack that swiftly opens into a roomy chimney, urging climbers to commit to powerful body jams and precise footwork. From the ground up, the first 40 feet require bold protection strategy, relying almost exclusively on large cams and Bigbros — gear that anchors you securely as you push through the tight, demanding offwidth. The rock demands you find purchase in its subtle features; the left wall generously provides footholds within the chimney, easing upward momentum once inside.
As you climb, the physicality of the route becomes apparent: this isn’t a climb to be taken lightly. The crux is the initial squeeze—fitting your body to the narrowing crack, working your way into larger space with deliberate control. The chimney’s features beckon you forward, a rhythmic sequence of compression and balance that rewards patience and precision in equal measure.
The top-out presents itself in a distinct notch, a clear objective after 60 feet of engaging movement. Climbers accustomed to traditional slab or crack routes will find this challenge refreshingly direct yet taxing, requiring a blend of strength, technique, and mental focus. While the route is rated 5.8, the sustained offwidth effort and protection demands mean it plays closer to a harder grade for those unfamiliar with this style.
Located within the exposed and rugged Turkey Rocks sector of South Platte, the climb enjoys a wild, open setting with expansive Colorado skies overhead. The approach is straightforward but demands attention as the terrain can be uneven and rocky, so sturdy footwear is recommended. Aim to set out early in the day to maximize cooler conditions in the shaded sections of the climb.
Gear-wise, bring your largest cams and a reliable Bigbro or two to secure the lower offwidth section; smaller hand-sized cams will suffice higher up. Without appropriate protection on the initial sequence, the risk elevates significantly, so measure your gear carefully and don’t skimp. The route’s natural constriction and chimney require deliberate placements—wild or loose gear will undermine your safety.
A descent is best accomplished by rappelling from the top or carefully downclimbing the route itself if comfortable. Weather and seasonal changes can affect rock conditions—watch for moisture that may reduce friction inside the chimney.
Dark Side of the Moon is a rite of passage for offwidth enthusiasts visiting the South Platte area. It’s a chance to engage deeply with the rock’s physical demands while soaking in the untouched, windswept environment of Turkey Rocks. Whether you’re honing your offwidth game or seeking a memorable challenge, this climb demands respect and rewards commitment with a pure, hands-on climbing experience.
The first 40 feet are poorly protected without large cams and Bigbros; inadequate gear increases risk significantly. The chimney can have slippery feet from moisture, and the top-out notch demands careful attention to avoid a misstep. Approach the climb well-prepared with tested gear and situational awareness.
Bring your largest cams and a Bigbro; smaller gear won’t secure the offwidth section safely.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat, as shaded cracks stay cooler and more comfortable.
Check the chimney for moisture or loose rock before climbing to ensure solid footing.
Plan for a rappel descent to avoid tricky downclimbing on the exposed notch.
Big cams and Bigbros are essential for protecting the first 40 feet. A blue Bigbro combined with #5 and #6 cams form the core rack, with smaller hand-sized cams useful for the upper crack. Insufficient large gear will make the climb risky and potentially R-rated.
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