"Dark Meat delivers a satisfying 5.8 trad climb on Turkey Rocks’ granite, combining chimney jamming and wider cracks above a distinctive roof. This 120-foot single pitch offers direct, secure protection and a chance to engage classic South Platte slab granite in a less trafficked setting."
For climbers seeking a focused but rewarding traditional climb amid the rugged contours of Colorado’s South Platte region, Dark Meat offers a compelling blend of hands-on crack climbing and crackling chimney moves. This single-pitch 5.8 trad route, stretching about 120 feet, invites you to engage directly with the rock’s personality—from tight fingers pulling through the bottleneck chimney to wider, more relaxed jams beyond the roof. Situated on Turkey Rocks, a less crowded sector of the sprawling Turkey Tail area, the climb feels like a compact adventure that demands focus and careful gear management.
Begin your ascent by approaching the well-known Rasmussen Crack or Turkey Delight routes to reach the bolt and chain anchor perched on a ledge to the left. Dark Meat lines up just above this spot, sending you into an inviting chimney section that challenges you with good hand jams and a pull through a roof. After this intense bit, the route opens into wider crack climbing, allowing confidence to build as you climb steadily toward the top.
This climb’s placement in South Platte offers a landscape marked by granite walls that hold the marks of time—rough textures that test your grip and solid feet that reward controlled movement. The route’s protection calls for a standard trad rack with gear extending up to a #4 Camalot, so be ready to juggle bigger cams for secure placements. Beyond the technical climbing itself, the setting offers a taste of Colorado’s high-country atmosphere, where the forest edges frame clear sky and the rock face invites you to read its features like an open book.
Plan your approach carefully: a short but uneven trail leads you amidst granite outcrops and scrub, with an estimated walk-in time that typically ranges around 20 minutes from the nearest parking area. Make sure your footwear supports both the hike and the climb, and bring sufficient water—the dry landscape and sun exposure can dry you out quicker than expected.
Descend by downclimbing or rappelling off the north side, but stay alert—stone beneath feels rough and loose in places, so deliberate movements on the way down are essential. Early spring through fall is the ideal season to attempt Dark Meat, with morning starts ensuring cool rock and stable weather. The south-facing wall can warm quickly, so timing your ascent to avoid harsh midday sun preserves stamina and grip.
Dark Meat is a route that blends rhythmic crack techniques with solid protection and a chance to experience a quieter corner of the South Platte’s climbing offerings. Whether you come for a challenging warm-up or a confident 5.8 experience, this climb rewards with a straightforward line and the kind of setting that keeps the spirit of old-school Colorado climbing alive.
The route requires precise gear placement in cracks that can vary in width, especially near the roof; falling without secure protection could lead to a swing or impact on ledges. The north side descent has loose rock—take deliberate steps when downclimbing or rappelling.
Approach via Rasmussen Crack or Turkey Delight for easiest access to anchors.
Start early to avoid the intense afternoon sun on the south-facing wall.
Bring gear up to #4 Camalots for secure placements in the wider crack section.
Downclimb carefully or rap off the north side; loose rock can be found on descent.
Standard trad rack up to a #4 Camalot is essential to protect the chimney and wider crack sections. Expect to place cams thoughtfully on uneven surfaces; no fixed gear on the route itself except the anchor bolts on the left ledge.
Upload your photos of Dark Meat and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.