Dairyland offers a compelling alpine trad climb set in the rugged landscape of the Nesakwatch Spires, tucked within the wild expanses of British Columbia’s Western Chilliwack Range. This six-pitch route stretches approximately 700 feet, weaving through varied terrain that challenges both technical skill and mental stamina. The climb kicks off with a solid 5.9 hand crack running up a right-facing corner, delivering immediate engagement and a dependable sequence to test your crack climbing technique. The route quickly transitions into contrasting terrain as you navigate slabs, stem boxes, and narrow chimneys, each pitch unfolding a different texture under your hands and feet.

After the initial crack, an unassuming second pitch guides you up broken flakes and a heather-lined gully—less demanding but essential for pacing your climb. The third pitch surprises with a short chimney that offers secure hand jams and solid protection placements, an ideal space to reset before the approach to the tougher sections. Climbers have taken slightly different variations here; the left traverse favors simpler moves, while the straight chimney route offers more direct but strenuous climbing, rated just above 5.10a.

Pitch four presses forward into a thin finger crack that demands precise finger strength and balance—this section is where the climb begins to assert its character and separate experienced climbers from the rest. Following that, pitch five shines as the ‘money pitch,’ kicking off in a tight hands crack before opening into a series of hand jams and an optional zig-zagging finger lock to the right that leads into a highly pumpy but rewarding finish. This pitch, usually rated 5.10b, tests endurance and technique with its sustained sequences.

The final pitch involves tackling an off-width rated 5.7 that feels unprotected without a #6 cam, requiring confident crack climbing and careful judgment to safely reach the summit. Once at the top, climbers are rewarded with broad panoramic views of the Fraser Valley and the distant summits around. It’s a route where every pitch brings something new—be it technical crack work, route-finding in broken terrain, or mental grit to push through the pump.

Approach trails to Dairyland are moderate, threading through alpine forest and heath, making for a scenic start to a demanding day. The blend of solid traditional protection placements and clean natural features provides a reliable safety net, though climbers should pack a full rack and expect to place a variety from tiny nuts through large cams. Anchors are all gear-based, so readiness with placement skills is essential. Timing your climb in late summer to early fall avoids seasonal moisture and gives the best chance for dry cracks and secure footing.

This route fits climbers seeking an authentic alpine experience with a mix of trad challenges and breathtaking wilderness exposure. Its combination of crack climbing, varied terrain, and optimal protection options make it a rewarding venture for those prepared to commit. Be vigilant with weather forecasts and approach logistics; even in fair conditions, this climb demands respect for the elements and alpine environment.