"Crossing the Milky Way offers a rewarding multi-pitch trad climb in the Southern Sierra with moderate grades and diverse terrain. This 700-foot route blends steady gear opportunities with smooth climbing, ideal for climbers looking to stretch their trad legs amidst serene wilderness."
Crossing the Milky Way carves out an accessible yet thoroughly engaging path along the Milky Way Wall, perched within the rugged expanse of Shuteye Ridge in California’s Southern Sierra. This moderate 700-foot trad climb rewards climbers with four pitches of steadily evolving terrain that leans leftwards, challenging you to read the rock while staying attuned to the natural rhythm of the route. From the moment you step onto the ledge’s far right edge, the climb guides you along left-slanting seams and bold cracks, threading pockets and water-runnels that reflect the mountain’s raw character.
The opening pitch sets the tone with a blend of bolt protection and opportunities for gear placements around bulges and pockets. It demands steady feet and a keen eye for subtle holds, leading smoothly into a straightforward belay anchored with solid gear. The second pitch intensifies slightly with the crux tucked into a clean dihedral—a neat line offering good protection and positive holds, capped by bomber knobs that promise relief after each move.
Pitch three shifts emphasis to technical seam climbing, where knob holds and a widening crack invite varied gear placements, requiring confidence and precision. A strategic traverse early near the pitch’s top keeps exposure manageable, a thoughtful nod to comfort on this inviting route. The final pitch brings the climb to its summit crest with a secure combo of knob slings and gear placements, rewarding careful movement with sweeping views from the skyline. The walk-off descent veers left, marked clearly by cairns, easing your way back through forested trails.
Crossing the Milky Way lives up to its reputation as one of the area’s best long, moderate trad routes, catering especially to those seeking an approachable challenge in a remote Southern Sierra setting. Expect a blend of moderate technical moves and steady rhythm, with a focus on reading the line and placing gear judiciously. The rock’s character changes throughout, with knobs, cracks, and pockets offering both tactile variety and climbing flow. The route’s gradual incline and natural protection balance excitement with accessibility, making it a favored option for climbers looking to soak in Sierra wilderness without committing to extreme difficulty.
Planning your ascent here means arriving well-prepared with a full single rack, alpine draws, and essential slings to wrap knobs confidently. While the route offers bolt protection, nut placements are sparse, so careful gear selection and technique are key. Early starts are advisable to capitalize on calmer morning conditions, with sun exposure varying by pitch but generally favoring a late morning to early afternoon climb window. The approach trail is straightforward but remote, demanding enough focus to keep your energy conserved for the wall.
As you climb, the surrounding forest whispers encouragement, while rock surfaces demand respect and reward steady focus. The Milky Way Wall is patient, inviting all skill levels to carve a memorable day in this quiet corner of the Sierra. Whether you're stepping up to test your trad skills or simply seeking a fulfilling adventure that blends natural beauty with practical challenge, Crossing the Milky Way promises a climb both grounded and inspiring.
Approach the route with caution around the exposed traverse on pitch three, moving left early to avoid unnecessary exposure. The rock is solid but some knobs require careful slinging to ensure secure protection. The walk-off, while well-marked, crosses forested terrain where loose footing and hidden roots demand attention.
Begin early to avoid afternoon heat and maximize shade on the steeper pitches.
Bring plenty of slings to secure knobs and extend placements.
Stay left as the route trends, watching for bolts marking key protection spots.
Follow cairns carefully on the walk-off descent to avoid unnecessary scrambling.
A standard single rack is sufficient here, with alpine draws and plenty of slings to wrap bomber knobs. Protection relies heavily on well-placed cams and slings, as nut placements are limited. Bolt-protected anchors and fixed bolts appear sporadically, providing solid but sparing fixed protection.
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