"Crash Diet sits on the edge of Goose Creek’s rough granite, delivering a gritty 5.9 R runout mantle and delicate friction climbing. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a bold single pitch that balances risk with reward in a quiet outdoor setting."
Crash Diet provides a gritty and rewarding climb for trad climbers craving a raw edge mixed with technical finesse. Located within the rugged folds of Goose Creek, this 200-foot, single-pitch route challenges you with a series of friction-dependent moves that demand steady feet and confident placements. The opening section features a 5.8 friction slab that lulls you into careful precision, protected only by a few scattered bolts. If the clean, delicate smears on rough stone don’t slow your ascent, preparing for the runout mantle rated at 5.9 R is next. This move requires you to trust your balance and intuition as you reach for the third bolt in the sequence — here, the rock is solid and reliable, rewarding your focus and grit.
Once at the belay anchor perched atop the climb, a toprope option rated at 5.10 unfolds, making it a tempting playground for refining your skills on trickier moves without overcommitting. The route’s position above South Platte’s quiet expanses means you climb surrounded by crisp, open air and the slow hum of the canyon below. The surface of the rock feels coarse under your fingertips, with occasional patches decking the face, demanding a tactile connection as your fingers and toes dance on the stone.
Approaching the route requires steady footing through scrub and pine, with the trail guiding you as it winds toward the base of the climb. The area is lightly trafficked, preserving the authenticity of a wilderness experience while offering decent access. Gear-wise, you’ll want a rack suited to protect smaller cams and a selection of quickdraws for the few bolts scattered on the face. Be prepared for the runout sections, which blend challenge with calculated risk; this is no climb for hesitation.
Crash Diet surfaces as a bold test of trust between climber and rock. The route’s exposure is tempered by solid placements, yet the absence of frequent gear nudges you to stay alert and intentional on every move. Whether you’re pushing your limits on lead or exploring the toprope as a practice run, the climb delivers a hands-on lesson in pacing, mental focus, and technical control. Expect sun on the wall in the morning, drying quickly to prime conditions, with cooler shadows creeping in during late afternoon. The approach trail makes it accessible, but the commitment on the rock assures each ascent is earned.
This climb appeals to those wanting a grounded experience where the rock’s personality guides every step. It’s a compelling choice for seasoned adventurers who respect its subtleties and are comfortable managing the responsibilities of minimal protection. Safety, precision, and respect are your companions. Dress for the seasons, wear sticky shoes, and carry enough hydration to savor the quiet endurance necessary to meet the route’s demanding profile.
Watch your footing on the friction slab during the initial section where protection is sparse. The runout mantle at 5.9 R demands clean execution; a fall here could result in serious consequences due to the spacing between bolts. Approach with caution and avoid climbing in wet or damp conditions.
Start early to catch the morning sun and avoid afternoon shade on the wall.
Wear sticky-soled shoes to grip the friction-dependent slab sections.
Carry at least 2 liters of water—the approach and climb are dry and exposed.
Toprope from the belay for practice before committing to the lead on the runout mantle.
Bring a rack focused on smaller cams and nuts, plus a handful of quickdraws to clip the limited bolts. Prepare for awkward placements on the friction slab and plan your protection carefully to handle the runout mantle safely.
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