"Cow-a-Bunga offers a hands-on trad climb up clean finger cracks and chimneys that showcase the raw granite of Unaweep Canyon. With a solid 5.8 rating and a challenging 5.9 variation, this route balances straightforward movement with technical gear placements, making it a rewarding choice for intermediate climbers."
Carving your way up Cow-a-Bunga feels like stepping into a chapter written by the rough granite of Unaweep Canyon itself. This 150-foot trad climb offers a straightforward yet engaging line, starting with a solid chimney and crack system that carries you upward for nearly 80 feet. The rock here challenges your hands and feet with solid edges and a well-formed finger crack that beckons you to follow it all the way to the top. The granite itself, coarse and reliable, seems to grip your every move, promising security even as the climb demands focus and precision.
Once you reach the clean finger crack on the right, a smooth rhythm emerges — this is the heart of Cow-a-Bunga’s appeal. There’s a satisfying flow to the movement, demanding technical footwork and steady breathing without overwhelming the climber. For those wanting a bit more bite, a 5.9 variation veers left about 50 feet up, introducing a steeper finger crack leading to a discreet ledge perched with bolts, offering a suitable endpoint or intermediate anchor.
This route embodies the rugged character of Lower Mother's Buttress in the Grand Junction area. The granite walls rise raw from the canyon floor, framed by the sharp light and open skies of Colorado’s high desert. Approaching this climb means embracing both the sun-warmed stone and the dry air, the scent of juniper and sage brushing past along the approach trails.
The setting is pragmatic but rewarding — accessible yet wild enough to feel like a genuine adventure. Getting here requires a short trek through scrub and rocky terrain, a journey eased by clear paths and GPS coordinates that keep navigation simple but purposeful. The climb’s lack of a fixed anchor previously meant extra care on descent, but now Sarah Meiser’s addition of a two-bolt anchor provides reassurance. However, the rope length and anchor placements call for precise planning — a 60-meter rope just falls short of the ground, making intermediate anchors on the 5.9 variation a savvy choice.
Protection demands a full rack of small to large nuts and cams, as placements come with nuance — the chimney and crack invite snug gear but challenge you to think a step ahead. This gear puzzle adds an element of mental engagement to the physical climb, reminding you that trad climbing blends technique with trust, both in rock and equipment.
Descend by walking off eastward, trading vertical exertion for a short hike back to the canyon floor. For the 5.9 variation, walkers can drop left then right to reach the bolts, offering flexibility depending on how you want to close out your climb. The route’s rating, a comfortable 5.8 with an optional 5.9 challenge, places it squarely in the realm of intermediate trad climbers seeking a genuine crack experience without complex logistics.
In all, Cow-a-Bunga captures the spirit of Unaweep Canyon’s main draws — solid granite, classic crack climbing, and a setting that reminds you why you seek stone and air in the first place. It’s ideal for those eager to expand their crack climbing repertoire or simply soak in the sharp light and quiet vastness of the Colorado desert. Come prepared with gear, hydration, and the intent to move with both caution and curiosity, and this route will reward you with rock that feels alive beneath your hands.
While the recent two-bolt anchor improves top protection, the absence of fixed anchors below means climbers must plan for intermediate gear placements carefully. A 60-meter rope barely reaches the ground, so multiple rappels or careful route variation navigation are required to descend safely. Watch for loose rock in the chimney and ensure firm, consistent gear placements before committing.
Bring a rack ranging from small to large cams and nuts to fit varying crack sizes.
A 60m rope is needed, but bring extra webbing or a second rope to manage anchors on the 5.9 variation.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat; this route gets full sun by midday.
Water and sun protection are crucial—there’s little shade on the approach or climb.
Prepare a full trad rack with small to large nuts and cams. The climb features tricky placements in chimney and finger crack sections. A 60-meter rope is essential but expect to use intermediate anchors on the 5.9 variation to safely lower off. Recent updates include a two-bolt anchor at the summit, improving anchor options.
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