"Coronet offers a measured trad route with four pitches that blend crack climbing, slab traverses, and corner roofs. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a moderate challenge backed by solid protection and spacious ledges in California's Southern Sierra."
Coronet offers a grounded traditional climb that balances straightforward gear placements with moments demanding calm focus and steady feet. Located in the quiet embrace of the Queen's Throne area along Shuteye Ridge in California's Southern Sierra, this four-pitch route stretches over 600 feet, delivering a mix of slab traverses, face climbs, and corner roofs crowned by solid anchors and natural protection. The opening pitch initiates with an approachable crack that soon fans into a rightward slab traverse, where a lone bolt in the middle offers a welcome spot of security on an otherwise runout section. The memory of a lead fall on this bolt reveals the route's unsolicited reminders to respect its potential consequences; a pendulum swing that jolts the body and sharpens the senses. Following this, the climb softens to 5.5 difficulty, with a steady ascent up the face past weathered bolts, culminating in a gear-protected belay set under a corner roof. The third pitch continues through a varied sequence of corners and roofs, leading climbers to spacious ledges where gear anchors sit amidst expansive views. The final pitch challenges with a knobby start before tapering into a runout slab at 5.7, finished cleanly with a bolted anchor. From the top, climbers scramble north-west to connect with trails toward Dreamscape or descend west back to the approach. Essential gear includes a standard single rack extending to 3.5 inches. The route’s nature encourages adaptable protection placements while urging judicious movement across technical slabs that test both resolve and comfort with exposure. Coronet’s balance of manageable technicality and natural setting makes it a practical choice for climbers stepping up their trad climbing confidence without venturing into extreme difficulty or risk.
The bolt on pitch one offers limited protection on a slab traverse where a fall pendulum can be harsh. Helmets are essential, and caution with every move near this section will minimize the risk of injury. Additionally, the runout slab on pitch four calls for confident slab climbing skills and planning before committing.
Approach the first pitch with clear focus—footing on the slab is small and the bolt is your only fixed protection.
Bring longer slings to reduce rope drag on the tight corner roof on pitch two.
Plan to scramble off northwest from the top for a safer and faster descent route.
Wear a helmet—pendulum falls here have resulted in head injuries despite protection.
Carry a standard single rack up to 3.5 inches to confidently protect all pitches, focusing on solid gear placements in cracks and corners. The lone bolt on pitch one provides limited protection on a slab traverse, so precise footwork and cautious moves are essential.
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